Carb Spacer

J

jsprengeler

Member
Does anyone know where, if anywhere, I can find a 2 bbl carb spacer for the 272 y block in my 55 Ford? Is it possible to make one? I'm looking for one of these to hopefully reduce some vapor locking. Thanks!
 
jsprengeler said:
Does anyone know where, if anywhere, I can find a 2 bbl carb spacer for the 272 y block in my 55 Ford? Is it possible to make one? I'm looking for one of these to hopefully reduce some vapor locking. Thanks!
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If you decide to make one. you should use the gasket as your template for cutting the holes into the new, thicker material. I don't know what materials, tools you have available. Personally, I would use aluminum to make a plate. You will need to be sure to get the bores nice and smooth or it could disrupt the air / fuel flow into the manifold.
 
I would buy one of the phenolic ones like hot rod reverend showed you. They transfer way less heat than aluminum to the carb. Also, if you really have vapor lock, it isn't a condition caused by the carb. It's heat in the fuel line or fuel pump that vaporizes the fuel and causes it to not flow.
The carb spacer will help eliminate fuel boiling in the carb after the engine is shut off hot.


Sal
 
I agree that the phenolic spacer would be a good option. I had to make one 40 years ago for my 55 so that I could add a PCV system to meet CA emissions. I do not remember all the details but I made a slot in the spacer and smashed down maybe a 3/8 piece of copper tubing to connect to.

There is a specialize vendor that advertises in the Early Ford V8 magazine that sells a 1/2" thick phenolic spacer, 2 gaskets and longer studs for $30ppd. He can be reached at gadgeteer@aol.com. His name is Robert Schuman. If you do not have a PCV system in your car this spacer could be reworked to include a fitting to connect to.
 
This has woken up the old memory bank, I use to make spacers and adapters out of hard wood, ash and red oak, in shop class back in the 60s. They worked great until I got out of school, employed and could afford the real thing.
 
Could be a fuel pump problem. I was recently having a vapor lock problem with a 77 chevy truck with a 400 small block and a good rebuilt quadrajet. Kept seeing online that the fuel pump could be weak so I replaced mine with new and , wow, what a difference. That changed how the truck runs dramatically. If you need a spacer made, I can machine one for you.
 
Thanks everyone. I do plan to either insulate the fuel lines or replace them with a braided line. My 272 runs fantastic. I just ran into a vapor lock problem the other night when I took my 55 to a local cruise in, and it wouldn’t start when it was time to leave. It was a very hot evening, and the carb wasn’t getting any gas. Several hours later, it started right up. Vapor lock was the obvious problem.
 
Be sure the heat riser is not stuck closed. A wood spacer works fine, don't slam the hood on the air cleaner wing nut.
 
That happened all the time on my bird. I finally figured out that at a show where I opened the hood, the car started right up. So I open the hood when I park in the garage. I blame ethanol fuel for most of it.
 
I made two of them many decades ago out of thick phenolic material. Still using one in my '55 Y-block with Ford EBU carb. The other one has never been used.
Don't remember where I got the material. Used a hole-saw in a standard 3/8" drill two cut out the two venture holes and a regular steel drill-bit in a drill-press (to make sure the holes were perfectly perpendicular to the intake mounting surface). Used an old carb gasket as a pattern.
If worse comes to worse, contact me by private message here and I can send you my un-used spacer.
You will need longer carb mounting studs, available at many hardware stores.
PS; are you sure the gas is not draining out thru your accelerator pump rather than vapor locking???
 
miker98038 said:
That happened all the time on my bird. I finally figured out that at a show where I opened the hood, the car started right up. So I open the hood when I park in the garage. I blame ethanol fuel for most of it.
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I think Miker is right on the money here... I have experienced the same with Ethanol fuel because of the boiling point being so much lower. Check out a post on my website that I just wrote:
https://www.hotrodreverend.com/single-post/2019/07/13/1955-Ford-Part-81-Running-with-the-Devil
 
Hot Rod Reverend said:
I think Miker is right on the money here... I have experienced the same with Ethanol fuel because of the boiling point being so much lower. Check out a post on my website that I just wrote:
https://www.hotrodreverend.com/single-post/2019/07/13/1955-Ford-Part-81-Running-with-the-Devil
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Thank you for your ministry passion!! My avatar runs a 302. I always run non ethanol in it and all my stuff that has a carb. Costs a little more but NEVER any fuel related problems. Should not be a question whether or not to use it IMHO.
 
I used to make them out of phenolic for the stock cars, we stocked it at work in 1" sheets. Mills very easily, but can't beat to buy one for $20 and be done with it.
 
I use to make spacers and adapters out of hard wood
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WOOD one need an annual inspection and certificate issued?

th
 
I blame ethanol fuel for most of it.
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The same problem(s) existed well before Ethanol Blended Gasolines ...

The main problem with the 55/57 BIRD is stuffing 10# of engine in a 5# bag. That and FORD's design of the cooling system.
 

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KULTULZ said:
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The main problem with the 55/57 BIRD is stuffing 10# of engine in a 5# bag. That and FORD's design of the cooling system.
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Along with rust debris buildup in the coolant passages toward the rear of the block...
(see photos, bottom of the page at this link)
https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/Overheating.php

... the design of the T-bird water pump spacer left a fair amount to be desired.
A fellow named Chris Ames has recently redesigned and improved it, with very good results.
(photos at this link)
https://thunderbird.us/
.
 
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