I bought a beat up Holley carburetor to rebuild as a way of teaching myself how they work. The one I got is pretty seized up. What’s the best way to loosen the flaps? One is stuck and one works. Should I place in an ultrasonic bath? I’ve never done this before so any help would be great. Thank you so much!
Carb rebuild question
- Thread starter KCW
- Start date
J Franklin
Well-known member
Most cleaning methods can't hurt your carb. Give it a try.
It’s an NH. Got it off with a torch. Now I’ve got another issue. I’m trying to get everything apart, and I need to remove the two pins that hold the flaps in. I see that the pins are slotted, so that they fit through the flaps and then a wire goes in to hold the flaps to the pin and keep it all as one.
I’ve got the wire out but those pins in each flap are super stuck. I’ve tried the torch again; and that helped a little but they both are pretty stuck. I’ve got some carb cleaner and an ultrasonic bath but I’m not sure that will help get the pins out. I even tried drilling one of them out with no luck. Any ideas? Thank you!
I’ve got the wire out but those pins in each flap are super stuck. I’ve tried the torch again; and that helped a little but they both are pretty stuck. I’ve got some carb cleaner and an ultrasonic bath but I’m not sure that will help get the pins out. I even tried drilling one of them out with no luck. Any ideas? Thank you!
I’m learning a bit more every day. What I’m having trouble are removing are the butterfly valves. The stems are in bad shape. I think the stems are slotted and the should slide out after I remove a retention wire. I think the stems are shot and I’ll need to dremel them out. I see NH carb rebuild kits online but don’t see the butterfly valves for sale. Can you by the butterfly valve flaps?
Lastly, is there a particular paint brand I should be using? Thanks for the advice everyone!
Lastly, is there a particular paint brand I should be using? Thanks for the advice everyone!
stevests
Well-known member
Your assumption is correct - remove clips, slide plate from shaft, remove plate. There are different length throttle & choke arms depending on the year. Can you post a photo ?
The correct term is throttle or choke plate - the "retainer wire" is called the plate clip - all available at Lang's Old car Parts.
The correct term is throttle or choke plate - the "retainer wire" is called the plate clip - all available at Lang's Old car Parts.
Ok! I used a dremel and also soaked in rust remover in my ultrasonic bath. Finally got those butterfly valves removed! Definitely destroyed the stems in doing so however and will need new ones. I’m a total amateur but my goal here is to learn about carbs by rebuilding one. I’ve got everything torn down and now I just need to know what new parts are need. I feel like a lot of the small pieces cleaned up nice.
Can you all point me towards the links for the valves and stems? Attached are some photos of what I’ve got. Lastly, can you point me towards some specific paint products I can use. I’m learning a lot! Thank you!
Can you all point me towards the links for the valves and stems? Attached are some photos of what I’ve got. Lastly, can you point me towards some specific paint products I can use. I’m learning a lot! Thank you!
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rotorwrench
Well-known member
There was a thread on black carb paint for the model A Zenith series of cast iron carburetor bodies on the model A forum. I'd have to search it to find it but anybody can do a search on here or on google.
ratmother
Member
KCW - you previously posted a request for info for starting/adjusting a 1926 T. The side drain NH in your photo in pre-1926 - great for learning about NH internal parts, but may not be the best choice to throw parts at if you want to use with stock ‘26 NH choke and U-joint spray needle adjuster.
You may want to request Lang’s Model T Parts catalog to get better acquainted with T carbs and parts.
Attached photos show my rebuilt spare ‘26 NH along with the paint I use on Model T and Model A carbs, as well as the NH on my ‘26 RPU with 6 years of road grime since I rebuilt it - gloss black engine paint works for me.
You may want to request Lang’s Model T Parts catalog to get better acquainted with T carbs and parts.
Attached photos show my rebuilt spare ‘26 NH along with the paint I use on Model T and Model A carbs, as well as the NH on my ‘26 RPU with 6 years of road grime since I rebuilt it - gloss black engine paint works for me.
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Thank you for writing back! I do own a 26 at roadster pickup. I’m not going to put my rebuilt carb in though. I’m doing the rebuild to educate myself on how they work. Sounds silly, but it’s something I need to do in order to internalize the process. It is working though!
I’ve got everything stripped and am waiting for my paint to arrive.i need to order a few other parts too. Another question: do I painting the inside of the bowl? Also, is it ok for the inside of the carb to be bare metal or should I paint that too? Sorry for the rookie questions - very appreciative of your input!
I’ve got everything stripped and am waiting for my paint to arrive.i need to order a few other parts too. Another question: do I painting the inside of the bowl? Also, is it ok for the inside of the carb to be bare metal or should I paint that too? Sorry for the rookie questions - very appreciative of your input!
ratmother
Member
Don’t paint inside carb - leave bare.
Not silly at all tearing things apart to learn what makes things tick, how to repair and how to reassemble.
I’ve been tearing pre-war cars and engines, transmissions, carbs, fuel pumps, etc. apart since I was 12 years old - almost 60 years later, I’m actually getting pretty good at putting ‘em back together!
Good luck!
Not silly at all tearing things apart to learn what makes things tick, how to repair and how to reassemble.
I’ve been tearing pre-war cars and engines, transmissions, carbs, fuel pumps, etc. apart since I was 12 years old - almost 60 years later, I’m actually getting pretty good at putting ‘em back together!
Good luck!
Follow-up question. The bowl of my carb has the drain in the side, not the center. There is no drain attached to the side hole. I found the correct drain on Lang’s but it says it has to be soldered. I’ve soldered electronics in the past, but that solder is soft. Is there some other type I should be using to solder on my drain? Never done anything like this before. Silver solder? No idea how to proceed. Thank you!
rotorwrench
Well-known member
Tin solder is soft but it may work better to seal it. The silver takes a lot more heat. In any case make sure you have some good flux and super clean surfaces or nothing will stick. Ratmother in post #12 is giving you realistic advice on those older type carbs. They can be more of a PITA than they are worth but you are learning that already.
His paint recommendations are in post #14. If you paint inside, what ever is used must be able to take a chemical beating and fuel will always be bathing everything in there. If the paint breaks down to that then it can plug ports and orifices.
His paint recommendations are in post #14. If you paint inside, what ever is used must be able to take a chemical beating and fuel will always be bathing everything in there. If the paint breaks down to that then it can plug ports and orifices.