Carb questions - Holley 94

Scott H

Scott H

Well-known member
I've got two 94 carbs, one is Holley script and the other Ford script.

I like the base on the left because it doesn't have the vac port, but I'm having trouble with the weight and ball
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Any tricks to getting the little brass weight out of the center, or the check ball out of the bottom of the accel pump? I've soaked in MMO, Liquid wrench, even CLR but can't get either one to budge. And yes, the spring clip is out.
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Does it matter which top I use? One has a screw in the top of the fuel bowl cover which I can repair, plus the butterfly has a rusted spring on the little air valve. The other has a broken tab on the end of the choke shaft and the butterfly is held in with rivits instead of screws. It has a nicer top, a nicer butterfly.
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tickle gently the acc. pump check valve and the little ball with something pointed like an ice pick. then slam the base down carefully on a piece of wood. they will come out. i would either hunt for a better top or replace the butterfly and the shaft and the operating tab. parts are available. you will need to drill the rivets. just my opinion, wait to hear from the carb experts....jack

P.S. you will need the vacuum port only if you are running the stock Ford distributor on an 8BA
 
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Other than picking around the ball with a sharp needle like tool, and then using care and skill slam the carb upside down on the bench. Use care to make sure ut hits square and flat and not bend anything up.
Try gently tapping all around with a small hammer, again not enough to damage anything, just enough to shock things free.

I've heard of an untrasonic cleaner, I've never used one, maybe someone that has used one would be able to say whether it would be useful in this sort of case.

Mart.

Edit: Must have been typing the same time as Jack.
 
Good tips so far...should have mentioned I've been using a pick tool, a tiny hammer for shock and vibration, and hitting it down onto my hardwood workbench. Ultrasonic cleaner sounds interesting...
 
jack orchard said:
i would either hunt for a better top or replace the butterfly and the shaft and the operating tab.
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I like the top on the right, I'll probably take them both apart and use the choke shaft from the one on the left to put the one on the right back together.
 
The rivits can be drilled out and holes tapped for 6x32 thread {i have the correct screws}Slamming on a block of wood will most of the times get it out.Or and trying to blow it out with a needle tip on a high pressure compressor through the other end of that passage in the rear rght hand corner of the float bowl. I also tap lightly with a steel rod and a hammer to upset the bond of them [not too hard now] The other hole in the AP chamber leads to he brass needle which is also stuck.Do same thing here. Let us know how you make out. ken ct.There are other options but dont like doing them.
 
Another reason to favor the top on the right is the internal vent. The other has an external vent that will puke gas out onto your clean manifold. Check the threads on the fuel inlet before your final answer.
 
Fuel inlet threads match (I threaded the old fuel line in to check)

I swapped out the choke shaft and butterfly. Still need to tap the threads for the throttle plate screws.
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I tried warming it with a candle, using more MMO, and hitting on a block of wood. I think it will work eventually, just hasn't worked yet. Still need to get the check ball and weight out.

I want to take the throttle rod out of the one of the right and put it in the one on the left.
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hmmm...do you think this float is salvageable? :D
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I don't think I've seen on this thread that you have taken wire clip out that holds the ball in on the bottom of the pump well. Mabe I've missed it. Walt
 
Walt Dupont--Me. said:
I don't think I've seen on this thread that you have taken wire clip out that holds the ball in on the bottom of the pump well. Mabe I've missed it. Walt
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Yep, you missed it but I didn't :D It was in the third sentence of the original post. Thanks for checking in Walt

Since last post I tapped the choke shaft and installed old 6-32 screws. Not enough meat left on them to stake them but I think threadlocker should be okay. They can be such a b*tch to get out I can't imagine them wanting to come out on their own.
 
Moving the shaft from the right hand base to the left hand one will not work because theres no step for the lever to ride on. Look closely at both bases where the shaft comes out. Left base has NO step. ken ct
 
ken ct said:
Moving the shaft from the right hand base to the left hand one will not work because theres no step for the lever to ride on. Look closely at both bases where the shaft comes out. Left base has NO step. ken ct
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Thanks Ken! I guess I would have only noticed that when trying to put it back together.
That step is for the 9615 'hand thottle lever' which I don't currently have. It was already missing from the carb. I guess my option is to find a base that is stepped or figure out how to turn down a couple steps on this one. But I'll still need to find the lever and the end cap.
I suppose if I can get the rusty throttle plates out I can re-use the stepped base and just hunt for the lever.
 
One down and one to go! :D
I got the brass "needle, pump discharge" out

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Still need to get the check ball out of the accelerator pump well
 
Ken
Considering the fact that the 94 has been around for awhile, are the boosters all the same or which on do you consider the best? Yhanks Ol' Ron
 
What part in the rebuild kit is the felt ring retainer? Is it the brass ring?

Sorry, no hijack intended, just Holly 94 question.
 
I dont even replace the felt[you can almost never get it in right] If the oillite bushing is missing i put one in.I have the bushings ,brass needles,and the lever assembly [lever,spring and cap] ken ct PM or email/
 
Scott H said:
One down and one to go! :D
I got the brass "needle, pump discharge" out!
Still need to get the check ball out of the accelerator pump well
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Success!
I don't know which procedure was ultimately responsible, or maybe a combo of all of them, but I finally got that little stupid #@*%!* check ball out!

Soaked in PB B'laster
Boiled for an hour in a few qts of water with a cup of vinegar
soaked overnight in vinegar water
soaked in MMO
removed plug at end of passage and tried to get under the ball to pop it up

last night I soaked it again with MMO. Using a small locksmith pick tool with a little curve on the end and working thru the passageway I was able to scrape under the check ball. When I saw MMO fluid coming out the passage I knew I finally had an opening. Slammed it down on my wood workbench and the little ball finally popped out.

Now to finish cleaning up, plug the passage with PC7 epoxy, and I can start to put it all back together. :D :D :D
 
The two carbs I'm trying to make into one good one, both had the felt washer on the accel pump rod. One had a steel washer and the other had nothing. Is the felt supposed to be oiled? the steel washer doesn't seem to keep the felt inside the bore. It doesn't seem like a critical part or is it?

Ken, when you said you have the lever, cap, and spring I assume you mean for the hand throttle?

What oillite bushing are you referring to, is it on the throttle shaft?

Got it all cleaned up and 90% back together. Still need to adjust the float and put in the accel pump (its soaking in oil right now)
 
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