Carb questions for a 35 Ford

JSeery: I'll check for resistance. But a question: My resister is as you've shown in the pic. But is it just the round shaped metal on the left of the board that acts as an effective resistance, or is there something inside it like a ceramic piece which absorbs electricity?
 
The wire that is wound around the outside is what provides the resistance, the ceramic core is just to handle the heat. A resistance wire gets very hot and the design is to deal with the heat, but only the thin outside wire is providing resistance.
 
The ballast is there to provide for some extra power to the ignition at startup.
Cold it has a lower restistance sending more current through the coil giving you a hotter spark...once it heats up it reduces the current to a lower amount.
So for it to work it has to heat up to a fairly high temp...
 
I use Carburetor cleaner to clean out minor dirt inside and out. If passages are blocked then alcohol to soften blockage so they can be blown out. Uncle Max sells a special tool for soaking the emulsion tube, idle tube and power valve passages with alcohol, tool also assist in blowing them out. There isn't much you can do about corrosion maybe clean with Mauriac acid or liquid toilet bowl cleaner is another acid. Do a search here on fordbarn. If using any strong chemicals be careful and protect yourself! If you send the Carb. to Uncle Max (Max Musgrove) send it dirty, he will clean it properly.
The original Ford resistors are good, even used ones. If new or used, I make sure to clean all the brass attachment hardware plus the two resistor mounting tabs both sides. The resistor is only 0.5 Ohm and dirty hardware or tabs can easily increase the resistance to double what Ford coils need and connection resistance can lead to heating in the wrong places. After only a couple of minutes of energizing the resistor, the temperature is so high it will quickly burn skin if touched. This is normal.
 
If you pour gas down the carb, does it start and stay running. Starter fluid also works. I am not sure how hot the resister is getting but if the points are not opening that might do it.
 
Frank: yes, I've poured a few ounces down the carb, the engine responds w. the engine turning over for 1-2 seconds, than dies. I'm checking for air leaks this weekend, and am swapping fuel pumps and carbnext week.
 
Terry: I'm thinking the reason for the over-heating of my resister was a combination of holding down the accelerator more that say 5 seconds along with several follow up attempts coupled with my not having cleaned the resister in the first place of any possible chemicals before using it. I'm checking for air leaks and either way will be putting on a new carb and pump and one hose line.

Separate question: I'm starting to lean towards an electric fuel pump--maybe this should be on a separate thread? A friend of mine thinks part of my problem is letting the car sit say 3 weeks and he thinks the fuel slowly moves back to the gas tank so when I try to fire up the engine, I'm in reality trying to suck fuel from 12' feet away. I'm curious how to set up the electric pump. I believe it gets mounted as close to the tank as possible. But then do you run a separate fuel line direct to the carb, or somehow through the stock pump?
 
Want the pump low and close to the tank, you want to push the fuel not pull it. The pump needs to output around 2 1/2 psi or you need to add a pressure regulator. You can run it straight to the carb or through the existing pump. The issue with the existing pump is it is possible (if the diagram has a leak) to pump fuel into the crankcase.
 
Thanks JSeery: I'll check with Napa and B & G re an electric pump; The diaphragm leak issue is motivating me to run the line direct to the Carb. So, if I do, do I just bypass the pump i.e. it just sits there? Ron
 
Yes on just by-passing the mech pump. You need an elec pump that will work on 6v pos ground. There have been several recommendation in past post.

Here is one Koates recommended:

"AIRTEX" 6 volt low pressure (2 - 4 PSI) electric fuel pump, which will operate both Neg or Pos ground by just swapping the two wires around and then you are good to go. AIRTEX part # E8902 at somewhere around $60.00 each. Regards, Kevin.
 
Thanks JSeery for the added info and recommendation. Hopefully getting closer to a solution. Am awaiting a rebuilt Carb from Max and a pump from Ken. Checked for air leaks-none found, connections tight. Hoses clear. Tank full. Still have spark. May know in a week. Ron
 
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