Carb question

D

dgmgohl

Member
I have a 1956 Customline with a transplant 292 single barrel. It was running rough before storage, and I was adjusting the set screws in back. I turned them all the way in to adjust, and the motor kept running. I know this is not normal. What would cause this? And is there an adjustment I'm missing. This was a new carb this past summer.
 
Your carb most probably resembles this Holley 94 in the video series: https://youtu.be/kPq4WhD2s0Y?feature=shared

Charlie Price is pretty good and knows his stuff, I highly recommend you watch those videos.

The carburetor you have is actually a two barrel, three-bolt base carburetor that came stock on a lot of 272's and 292's in 55 and 56. If yours is original to the engine then you have a choke cap on the side with a long rod extending to the base, correct?

If it has been sitting with ethanol fuel in the bowl then please remove, disassemble, and clean it thoroughly. You will be glad you did. The problem you describe would indicate a clogged passageway (or two).

EDIT: sorry you said "transplant" - not sure what you got
 
The 3 bolt Holley 94 was never originally used on a 292. The first 292 two barrel was in '57 with a Holley 2300 or Autolite 2100. '55 and '56 292's used the holley 4000 4 barrel carb (teapot).
It sounds like your idle adjustment problem could be a ruptured power valve, or flooding (high fuel level).

Sal
 
I'm not sure I'm in the right spot to post this, but here goes: I bought a 47 Ford Super Deluxe V8 Convertible. The previous owner has replaced carburator with a Henkyo carb. It is a 3 bolt base. It appears like the carb body is split, held together by 3 (or perhaps 4) slotted flathead screws. Problem: Carb keeps flooding. Gas is coming out between the two halves of the carb body. The car has a new gas tank (I installed) and a new electric fuel pump. I purchased a pressure regulator that works by restricting the flow,but have not installed it yet I'm thinking the float is stuck, either needle valve corroded by junk from old tank, or perhaps a hole in float body. I am not familiar with this carburator but I'm considering taking the top half of the carb body off to see if I can view the float assy to determine the problem. Has anyone ever had this problem? I could use advice. Thanks.
 
OCK..you may want to post in the early V-8 forum. Assuming that you still have the original flathead v8.

Mike
 
The first thing you want to do is measure the fuel pressure with a gauge and then find the specs on whatever carb you are using.

I take it that the carb is a CHI-CON and not FORD?
 
... use carb cleaner and spray around base plate and see if engine speed changes then you found a vacuum leak and go from there
Click to expand...

If one chooses to use this method, any facial hair, eyebrows, nose and ear hairs, eye sight and possible soiled undies are all subject to a flash fire (not to mention a possible concussion and scalp tear due to sudden movement from hitting the head on the hood).

- USE AN EYE SHIELD AT THE LEAST -​

Spraying a flammable fluid onto a hot engine can have serious repercussions.

" I FELL INTO A BURNING RING of FIRE ..."

GITUM' JOHNNY CASH ... :rolleyes:
 
I know this is an older thread. However, #3 above seems like good advice. The power valve is an easy replacement if the thing is already apart. If using a carb on a manual transmission remember the idle tends to be set higher on them. The idle circuits are only in-play at the lower speeds. Idle screws do zero after a certain RPM.

FYI my 57 Ford 292 had a Ford 2-barrel on it from the factory. Mine worked just dandy when I took it off.
 
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