Carb question on new project

gmanrides

gmanrides

Senior Member
Hey guys I recently picked up a 31 coupe with a 59AB in it. It had run issues when I purchased it but due to the deal that was struck it did not concern me. So as Ol Ron say's I started putzin around with it. The engine has a set of Navarro heads with a Navarro 2x2 intake and a pair of 97's. The engine would start but idle was inconsistent and acceleration was poor, no power. I yanked the intake off and installed a stock single with a 94. She fired right up and rocked the little A when throttled, idled right at 450 rpm's. Keep in mind that the car is a fresh build and driven last year. The PO had the engine rebuilt and carbs rebuilt. I pulled the 97's apart and they both were filthy, looks like deteriorated rubber hose inside. after inspection my main concern is the pump wells and their condition at the bottom 1/4 of the wells. The have the 69 power valves and until my jet wrench gets here probably has 45 main jets. What is acceptable? Can they be repaired? Should I just start over with new one's? Thanks Gary
 

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Looks like maybe fuel lines that are not compatible with the newer fuel. Did they have brass floats? As long as the shafts don't have to much play in the bases I'd clean them up and run them as air. Hit up uncle max and get some gasket sets. If you don't feel comfortable doing that ship the carbs to him and have them redone. Buy some fuel lines compatible with the new fuel if need be.

Are you running straight linkage or?
 
Look at the accelerator pumps you removed. They do not go all the way to the bottom of the wells. The bottom of the pumps depress the pins on the top of the power valves. .044 Mains and #69 PV is about right. Were you able to get the power valves out? If the carbs leak Uncle Max can re-face the seats for the gaskets (even the PV) I see the pitting on the bottom of the float chamber and the accelerator wells, it does not look too bad
 
Yes, you need new carbs and I will accept the old ones-----SERIOUSLY, I don't see anything that would prompt me to reject your carb. If you want a proper color and proper performing carb send it to Uncle Max.
 
Ok, hopefully my parts and wrench shows up today and I'll choose a screwdriver to modify for power valve removal. Actually everything has come apart right nice no issues just real dirty. I'll be replacing all the lines etc. The linkage is not quite right either but I have a plan for remedy. I am going to try my hand at these just for experience sake. Thanks guys.
 
My old ford book calls them power bypass jets....i always thought of a power valve as being vacuum operated.
 
Last edited:
Wolf,
Most power valves (or econamiser valves) are indeed vacuum operated, some are mechanical, but there all there for the same reason, and can all be called power valves.
Old Ford books also have starting motors and sparking plugs. Most now use starter motors and spark plugs, they be the same things.
Martin.
 
Well I got the fuel tank cleaned out and all the fuel line replaced. My parts showed up Sat afternoon as we were leaving for a cruise in. So I started on the carbs Sunday. First I set up the bases and adjusted the linkage do both butterflies were in unison. Both carbs had the .043 main jets in them. I had some .041's that came with the car but elected to keep the .043 in there and try them out. I installed the carb bodies and kept the tops off to check and set float level. The rear carb was a little low and the front one was high. Drained the carbs down some adjusted tabs and tried again this time the float on front carb would not shut the seat off. Removed float felt heavy, shook, yep I have a leaker. Guess what I didn't order new? Yep waiting on parts again.
 
You shouldn't need to go far from stock jets and PV. I always start with stock and go from there.
That's a bugger with the float.
Martin.
 
Well I guess it is time to contact Uncle Max. I got it to idle and throttle response was pretty good but it just isn't right. It is way to rich and the mixture screws did not seem to make any difference or very little. I used the 69 PV with the .043 jets. I took it for a spin and it died coming back right at the start of our gravel drive and would not restart. Walked home and got the tow rope and mule and pulled it the rest of the way. Acted like ignition breakdown. Changed out the Accel 1.5 ohm coil and put the Bosch 00012 3.5 ohm on it and replaced the condensor with the Echlin brand. Removed the 2x2 intake and put the single on there and it ran fine. Now I need to redo the linkage and try driving it again. On another note is there any need for the wire from the I terminal on the start solenoid to the + side of the coil since I did away with the ballast resistor? I also removed all the carbon covered H10 plugs and installed new 414's as well. Thanks for any input. Gary
 
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