Car Stalling When Stopping

S

Steve Rinaldo

Member
My 1930 "A" has started to stall out when coming to a stop quite often.
Here is where I am in trying to solve this:
1. Checked all the ignition settings and condition and they are right on the money.
2. I took the Zenith cab off cleaned and blew out the jets and checked the float level and all seemed OK.
3 The idle adjustment mixture screw is about 1 1/2 turns out.
4. The idle speed seems to be normal.
5. I normally run the car with the GAV about 1/4 turn open. I have tried to run with it closed and further open, it seems to make no difference.
6. When it starts to die I increase the idle speed using the lever and most times doing this prevents it from dying.
Any one have any ideas where to look?
Thanks, Steve
 
Bob C said:
Float level.
Click to expand...



I've had this issue, stalling poor idling at stopping. My experience


Checked and inspected the Sediment bulb screen, wiped it off. Turned the Gas petcock back on and noticed it took 2-3 minutes to refill the bulb. So re-cleaned the screen this time with Brake Clean and an air hose. Now fills quickly. Cleaned the pencil filter and carb filter too, carefully used low pressure and blew out the gas lines - to be thorough. Runs like a champ.


Must have been starving the carb. Also runs better over all, issue must have been so gradual, I did not notice till the stall/poor idling.
 
Stalling on a quick stop is quite common with early Zeniths. Later, the float bowl was RE-DESIGNED, to keep the gas from sloshing BACK & FORTH!
When driving in traffic, just advance the hand throttle 2 or 3 notches.
Bill Idling
 
Carburetor!

Over the years have seen this problem many times. Finally bought a new Zenith for our 29, since than, no issues.
 
Here is an easy thing to try and it has worked for me on several cars. A slight leak in the intake can cause this. Not a problem at road load, but that tiny leak becomes significant as you close the throttle and decal. The fuel in the bowl goes forward and makes things a little lean. With the air leak, the engine stumbles.
A leak in the intake manifold can cause this, but what I have found, it is the joint between the carb flange and the manifold flange. Those two surfaces warp and don't match.
Take a large file and, using a light and mirror, file the manifold flange until it is clean. Shinny all over, no low spots.
Do this same thing with the carb flange. Get it all cleaned up. Worth a try. Good luck.
 
If you normally run your GAV closed or close to closed on the open road, you can often fix the problem by opening the GAV 1/4 turn when you return to stop lights and signs.

Richard
Anaheim, CA
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top