Car lift

tomcarman

tomcarman

Well-known member
Thinking about a 4 post car lift. It would be used infrequently. No room height wise to store one car over the other, just to lift the car up to stand or sit on a stool to work on the underside. (we're getting too old). I've been looking at options. Mainly my question is I see some that run off 120V. I don't have 220V in the garage, yet. Name brands are a bit too expensive. Cheapos are not. Limited budget. Any opinions are welcome.
 
You might consider a scissor lift. I bought a used one for $300 to use in a garage with limited ceiling height and restored a 34 5 window on it. It was (and still is) a back saver. That and a low roll around stool from NAPA have been a good combination. Don't buy cheap! Used OK, cheap not OK.
 
You might consider a scissor lift. I bought a used one for $300 to use in a garage with limited ceiling height and restored a 34 5 window on it. It was (and still is) a back saver. That and a low roll around stool from NAPA have been a good combination. Don't buy cheap! Used OK, cheap not OK.
 
T Scott said:
You might consider a scissor lift. I bought a used one for $300 to use in a garage with limited ceiling height and restored a 34 5 window on it. It was (and still is) a back saver. That and a low roll around stool from NAPA have been a good combination. Don't buy cheap! Used OK, cheap not OK.
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I've been watching for a good used lift for quite sometime. None ever posted in my area, ever. New scissor lifts are in the same budget as a 4 poster. I see name brand lifts mainly at 220V, many assumed offshore brands at 110V. I'm curious is a 110V slower? Back saver...Yes Yes Yes. Too old anymore for up and down sliding around on concrete. 220V is on the radar but $$$. Garage is about 150 feet from power pole. Would need to trench to get there. Backhoe$$$ Permit$$$ Electrician$$$ Materials$$$ You get the idea. Right now I have a viable 20 amp circuit and a limited budget.
 
I have a 2 post I bought used off Facebook market place. My $ .02 worth IS 1) The most well known seller/Installer here In town i Contacted was a great source as he also sold used lifts when he had them, and installed them. Even though I didn’t buy mine through him, he went and disassembled mine, moved and re-installed mine for me for $400. 2). South of here is a company that deals in used car dealership “take outs” from dealership remodels, perhaps you manu research and fund one in your area?
 
I have kicked around the idea of a lift as well. The problem I've seen with used ones is that many are disassembled, laying in a pile outside. No way to know if the are complete or will work properly once assembled. The only way I would buy a used lift is if it was assembled and working so I could test it before buying. Lots of the ads say "worked fine when disassembled" which is right up there with "ran when parked".
 
I have a 4 post Benpak and I wired it 220. Speed raising is faster, they say twice as fast with the 220. I would not want it as 110 unless there was no option for this. I've had the lift about 3 years and love it.



JSeery said:
Not sure why you want a 220 unit, but if that's what you want go for it.
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Tom, I'm in the same boat age wise....can still craw under, but it's getting back out...and up again, that's the issue for me.


My dream for years was to have a lift. Finally, I found a sale on a four post Quality Lift, made in the USA. It can run on either 120v. or 220v. Since I have 220v in the garage for my welder, I added a circuit for the lift. Like Jerry Seery above, I use it quite a bit....maybe two or three times a week. Also, I've made some good friends in my neighborhood and helped them with their projects with all of us upright under the cars!! Don't have enough height to store cars stacked, but that's not a factor for me.


The benefit of 220v. is that the lift runs faster going up....gravity coming down is the same!!


The gentleman that installed mine has a business that services many of the commercial establishment in Tucson. From time to time, he has access to good used units...if I'd met him in the first place, think that's the way I would have gone.


In any event, I feel blessed to have what I have...in so many ways!!


Best of luck to you!!!
 
if your just using the lift to work on the car buy a two post with swing arms . a four post is much harder to adj brakes remove wheels for brake work greasing, oil change.
 
Did some looking, man have the prices gone up! Glad I purchased mine when I did, not sure but think it was around 20 years ago. In fact, my wife purchased it for me!! :)

To me the speed it go up is not a factor, but I'm old, and slow is normal.
 
richard crow said:
if your just using the lift to work on the car buy a two post with swing arms . a four post is much harder to adj brakes remove wheels for brake work greasing, oil change.
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Richard, you are absolutely right about a 4 post and working on wheels. I have to have something called a "jack bar" or tray that goes across the wheel tracks. I have to jack up the front or rear, depending where I'm working and put jack stands under the axle etc. to lift the wheel I'm working on. It does add to the process! All other work...oil changes, greasing, etc. is about the same re access to where you need to be.



Here in AZ, they build using something called a "post tension" slab which means I have cables in the floor concrete that are under tension to keep the slab from cracking. You can't drill into this type to secure a lift, because if you sever a cable, it's like an explosion with shrapnel!



Thankfully my four post doesn't need to be bolted down to be stable and safe. I think the two post lifts do need to be bolted to the floor....but not sure about this.
 
My neighbor has an old school single point lift I might be able to buy. I have space outside where I could install it. Does anybody have comments on using one of those. I know it would limit access to the central part of the car. Jim in San Jose.
 
v8nut said:
My neighbor has an old school single point lift I might be able to buy. I have space outside where I could install it. Does anybody have comments on using one of those. I know it would limit access to the central part of the car. Jim in San Jose.
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PITA if the develop a leak in the cylinder.
 
RKS.PA said:
Richard, you are absolutely right about a 4 post and working on wheels. I have to have something called a "jack bar" or tray that goes across the wheel tracks. I have to jack up the front or rear, depending where I'm working and put jack stands under the axle etc. to lift the wheel I'm working on. It does add to the process! All other work...oil changes, greasing, etc. is about the same re access to where you need to be.

Here in AZ, they build using something called a "post tension" slab which means I have cables in the floor concrete that are under tension to keep the slab from cracking. You can't drill into this type to secure a lift, because if you sever a cable, it's like an explosion with shrapnel!

Thankfully my four post doesn't need to be bolted down to be stable and safe. I think the two post lifts do need to be bolted to the floor....but not sure about this.
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Both 2 and 4 posts lifts have their advantages and disadvantages. 2 posts need to be securely bolted to the floor on an appropriate footing. Youtube is full of videos where the vehicle topples because the load of the vehicle got off the center of gravity and the lift wasn't secured. In my specific case the 4 post is a better option in that I wouldn't have to saw cut the slab, excavate for a footing and then refill with reinforced concrete and bolts. Also the 4 post can be moved if necessary. The 4 post with the jack tray also allows the raising of the wheels although as stated it is an extra step. Going up faster (220V) isn't an issue for me. I'm in no hurry to do anything anymore.
 
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