Car just died and won't start

1

1929tudor

Senior Member
I'm sure this has been asked a hundred times before so sorry for repeating it. Guess I should have read the other posts. I did look back a couple days ago about a guys car not starting and the replies on the what to test with a volt meter. I drove my car a couple miles today and it just died. Couldn't get it going so towed it home. I tested with my volt meter like was said the other day. With the probe to a good ground then to the terminal box and coil and all read 6 volts. Then I put a piece of paper between the points turn on the key and don't get a very good reading. Real low. can't remember the exact reading but definitly not 6 volts. maybe 1 or 2. I changed condensors 2 of them, changed coil still the same reading. All connections are tight. Now my battery is dead from trying to start it. Charge it back up tomorrow. Would think it's something else besides the condensor or coil. Car ran great for the 2 miles then nothing. Thanks so much for your help.
 
ok, stop "dive bombing" start slow and deliberate. Car needs Fuel, Elec and Spark that is all to run. So start at the fuel, is the line clogged, is the gas coming out of the fuel line, is the carb clogged with rust. start there and check that suff, then if all okay go to the elec. Are you getting spark, lay the coil wire next to a head nut and turn on the ignition, do you get the spark.. check all that applies, then check the coil etc. Point is you need to go slow and take each step at a time, YOU WILL find it if you do this, if you look in Les Andrews book you will have a step by step check list
Good luck
 
Is the rotor button turning while you crank the motor? The bottom of my distributor shaft broke a couple of years ago and caused the same problems for me that you are having. It was a new distributor that was less than a year old.

just a thought....
 
Thanks Mark and Chris for your help. I did check the gas situation and disconnected the line from the carb and flows nice and alot. The float and jets seem ok and working right. I'll try more electrical tests tomorrow when the battery gets recharged. Thanks again
 
I just solved this problem on a car at the Apple Hill Tour. The wire between the plates in the distributor had worked loose, would run until you moved the spark advance then it would run rough or die. It is a simple fix but will give you fits trying to find it.
 
With 6 volts at both sides of the coil with the key off would indicate that the problem is from the key to the point contacts. I dont know if you have a pop out switch or a replacement type, but your could have a freyed wire causing a slight short to ground. Make sure the ignition cable connection at the distributor is making a good connection. And, as John says check the wire from the lower plate to the points as it has a habit of shorting out.
 
Agree with what Mark had said. You need to get the points closed and then snap them with a screwdriver with the key on, and the coil wire about a 1/4 inch from a head nut. Should be a nice hot spark. If you have a good spark, then next is to be sure it is getting through the rotor and cap, to the plugs. Check spark at plugs. If no spark there then it is something in the cap or rotor.
 
First thing to check is if the rotor is turning when the starter is pushed. This would mean the distributor shaft is broken or the timing gear stripped.
 
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