car hauler trailer

barkleydave

barkleydave

Well-known member
I currently have two antique vehicles. While I prefer to drive them there are times when the need arises where I need to haul them on a trailer.

I am planning on attending several shows that are more than 900 miles away and driving the entire distance is not my best option.

Also good vintage car mechanics are many miles from me. While I am not afraid to turn bolts etc. Major engine repairs (rebuilds etc) I will leave up to the experts.

Was wondering if anyone out there has found or uses a hauler that does the job for our A's but does not cost 5K bucks!

I know that some states (IL is one) that require electric brakes on both axles on trailers with GWVR of 5000#

Even an A on an Aluminum trailer will be over 3000# closer to 4000#
Thanks
 
In a nutshell, you get what you pay for. The quality of a trailer is often determined by the products used. The good products cost $$ to manufacture. Is finding a used 'better quality' trailer an option for you?
 
I purchased a flat bed trailer for around $2K. But if I had it to do over again, I think I would spend the additional $ to get an enclosed trailer. The main reasons for the enclosed trailer is that first of all I could store the car in the trailer rather than my shop. I know this may not be the best storage but my rigs are drivers and not trailer queens. The second reason I would do the enclosed is that the flat bed I have has a bed of wood. Thus leaving it out in the weather all the time is hard on the wood. A good enclosed trailer should not have a problem leaving in the weather. In rainy Portland OR this is a consideration.

But other than these two reasons, the flat bed does the job of hauling my rigs anywhere I want to go with them. It is a two axle , 4 wheel brake trailer. I don't think I would use a one axle. Good luck with your search.

I think there was another posting on the Barn about this subject some time ago also.
 
I have a 20' aluminum tilt trailer with an aluminum truck tool box. There is an 8000# Warn winch inside the tool box to retrieve dead cars. I find this rig practical and more useful than an enclosed trailer.
 
Friendly word from a long distance driver, be certain that your tow vehicle is designed to handle all three units. That would be the tow vehicle, the trailer, and the antique. During my career I saw far too many dreams spoiled for want of fore thought. The fact that you pose the question here is encouraging. Anyhow if you haven't heard it yet Cross Those Safety Chains. Else wise they are tragedy chains.
 
an enclosed not only protects your car from weather and debris chips but it serves as an extra storage space for things when not in use.... cant beat a portable garage.. and yes a vehicle with the proper suspension and balls is a must...
yes u need trailer brakes..

if you buy the cheapo georgia made trailer thats what you'll get....
the better quality units are made in the indiana area
 
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While we have used flat trailers for many trips, having the enclosed trailer to keep everything secure and dry when it is bad weather is very nice. The added benefit is storage when you aren't hauling the car. We have our roadster pickup stored in the trouble truck trailer right now.
 

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Thought storage was a plus in having an enclosed trailer only to find the nickel plating turned green and mold elsewhere. It was vented and this is not an overly humid area. Maybe a dehumidifier would have made the difference but it's now used for storing the gazebo screens and furniture in the winter..........
 
Duffy1 said:
Takes a powerful truck to pull an enclosed trailer.[/QUOTE

Duffy, you are correct. You do need a good size truck to pull an enclosed trailer. I tried to pull a large enclosed trailer with my Chev 1500 and I don't think I ever got the ****** in high gear. I only ran about 10 miles and decided it was not the trailer to use with this size truck. But the flat bed works great with the 1500 and it almost seems like you do not have a load behind it with trailer and Model A.
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Haul/tow mode in c1500 great feature,high line pressure in trans less slippage
higher rpms but better mpg than with out haul/tow mode
 
a 1500 is real borderline if your pulling a 24' box or bigger...eventually it will kill the truck.. attempting it load levelers are a must have
a 16-20' would be better for a 1500 but not perfect

i pulled this 24 with the A on a f-150 and not only was the suspension to weak but the drivetrain would have eventually blown....
now with the 2500hd and duramax diesel w allison trans i can rip the trailer up mountains;)
no load levelers needed
 

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My car transporter is pure 1920's vintage, and although it is authentic, it is a reproduction of the original - consists of a 20 foot length of sisal/hemp 2" hauser line. Stores easily and I pay no taxes, fees, assessments, etc. to the State.
 
We use an F-150 with factory tow package. Have made numerous trips cross country don't even know the trailer is there most of the time.
 
"now with the 2500hd and duramax diesel w allison trans i can rip the trailer up mountains"

a sweet package by any definition....
 
180 a said:
We have a Ford F250 with power stroke Diesel, and can pull anything.
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We use a 1996 Dodge 2500 with a 5.9 to haul an enclosed all-steel trailer or a tilt deck depending on the load. The enclosed trailer can handle two Model A's or eight 1200lb yearlings. Would not like to use it in the mountains, but is fine on the flats and foothills.

Ian
 
I'm looking for a trailer now myself. I don't want to spend much either.
I had a mid 90's 24' Haulmark with a 7000# gross weight and pulled it many a mile with a '94 Chevy 2500 with a 350 gas engine. Not the best truck for towing, but if you didn't try to run over 65 it was good enough. I didn't tow more than 1500 miles a year so I could live with it. All of that got sold years ago.
I'm looking for a 20-22' used enclosed trailer now. I want something long enough for one A and a golf cart. Looks like something like that is going to cost around 5 thousand for a nice used one.
I've done the open trailer thing before too and for short trips close to home IMO they are the best to pull and the cheapest to buy. But when you start talking about going 900 miles you need a good enclosed trailer so the car is locked away during overnight stops and protected from the weather. Don't scrimp on the brakes. Even with an open trailer there may come a time when you need those trailer brakes to save your neck.
Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer ride.
 
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