Capt.
- Thread starter kp
- Start date
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Let me see if I can decipher this...
Are you trying to set the ignition timing, ...or set the ignition points gap? Those are two separate operations.
If you are setting the Distributor timing, be sure to use the pin in the front Timing Cover to find the dimple in the Timing Gear that indicate the #1 piston is at TDC. Then rotate the Distributor Cam to point to the #1 terminal. Then set the Ignition Points gap on that lobe to 0.019" gap, and then verify the same gap on each of the other Cam lobes.
nkaminar
Well-known member
There are gobs of posts on the Barn about how to set the timing and the gap for the points. Also gobs of videos on the subject. In this case Google is your friend. Or consult the Red Book. See https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=980031&cat=41621
No spark at the plugs is another issue. Did you re install the rotor? Is the high tension lead from the coil to the distributor top inserted all the way at both places? Are you getting a spark from the high tension lead when held 1/4 inch away from ground and opening the points with your finger?
No spark at the plugs is another issue. Did you re install the rotor? Is the high tension lead from the coil to the distributor top inserted all the way at both places? Are you getting a spark from the high tension lead when held 1/4 inch away from ground and opening the points with your finger?
Last edited:
katy
Well-known member
Instructions from the Ford Model A owners manual:
1. Fully retard spark lever.
2. Check gap between breaker contact points and if necessary
adjust them as described on page 28.
3. Screw out timing pin located in timing gear cover (see
Fig. 10) and insert opposite end of pin into opening.
4. With the starting crank turn the engine over slowly, at
the same time pressing in firmly on the timing pin.
When the piston reaches the end of the compression
stroke the timing pin will slip into a small depression in
the camshaft gear.
5. With the pin in place, remove the distributor cover and
lift off rotor and distributor body.
6. Loosen cam locking screw until cam can be turned.
7. Replace rotor and turn it until the rotor arm is opposite
No. 1 contact point in distributor head.
8. Withdraw rotor from cam and slightly turn the cam in a
counter clockwise direction until the breaker points just
start to open, then securely tighten cam locking screw.
9. Replace rotor and distributor cover.
10. Withdraw timing pin from depression in time gear
HTH
1. Fully retard spark lever.
2. Check gap between breaker contact points and if necessary
adjust them as described on page 28.
3. Screw out timing pin located in timing gear cover (see
Fig. 10) and insert opposite end of pin into opening.
4. With the starting crank turn the engine over slowly, at
the same time pressing in firmly on the timing pin.
When the piston reaches the end of the compression
stroke the timing pin will slip into a small depression in
the camshaft gear.
5. With the pin in place, remove the distributor cover and
lift off rotor and distributor body.
6. Loosen cam locking screw until cam can be turned.
7. Replace rotor and turn it until the rotor arm is opposite
No. 1 contact point in distributor head.
8. Withdraw rotor from cam and slightly turn the cam in a
counter clockwise direction until the breaker points just
start to open, then securely tighten cam locking screw.
9. Replace rotor and distributor cover.
10. Withdraw timing pin from depression in time gear
HTH
Jim/GA
Well-known member
7. Replace rotor and turn it until the rotor arm is immediately adjacent to
No. 1 contact point in distributor head.
I have seen people point the rotor in the opposite direction to the #1 pin, more toward the #4 pin, which would be incorrect.
Big hammer
Well-known member
Chased is issue for a day or two 55 years ago, age 17 and no internet , found a drawing of the distributor body showing how the contacts are routed internally . Hard to keep a teenage from driving his A !
Synchro909
Well-known member
A few years ago, I bought a 1930 CCPU out of Arizona. Before he shipped it, the seller took it to his local Ford dealer for a service and brake job. When I got it, I refused to drive it any further than into my workshop. They had made a death trap of the car and the windscreen sticker said that the next service was due in 5,000 miles.
NO CLUE!
TomInCologne
Senior Member
In 1931 Ford Germany put out a newspaper ad saying that every Ford sold had a life-long warranty. Funnily enough, last year they didn‘t want to know anything about it…