Can't remove fly wheel without removing engine? 59A

Old Henry-

One of the problems that can occur with 'resurfacing" a flywheel is the bottoming of the pressure plate bolts. Ford, for some unknown reason, did not drill the pressure plate bolt holes through the flywheel. So, when you resurface the flywheel you actually reduce the depth of the bolt hole which causes the pressure plate bolt to bottom out. If this occurs you could end up with a gap that would allow the pressure plate to chatter under load. The only practical solution to avoid this is to have the machine shop extend the holes through the flywheel whenever any resurfacing occurs.

Obviously, there are other sources of clutch chatter that range from minor to not so minor.

Hope this helps.

Tom
 
I suggest attaching a dial indicator to the block or pan flange with the tip against the flywheel face. Rotate the crankshaft(flywheel) several revolutions to get a "settled" reading of the face run-out. From the appearance of the pressure plate it might have excess run-out.

If the face is true you can scuff with air sander and flat disc to a usable condition. If it is not true you should shop for a different, uncut, flywheel and start over.

Getting the flywheel and clutch assembly balanced is only easy if the crankshaft with bobweights is already on the balancer. Otherwise you will need some kind of arbor to which the flywheel can be attached and spun. After the flywheel is balanced bolt the PP on and balance it. Some guys like to check the flywheel then attached the PP and see if there is a location within the bolt pattern which will minimize any out-of-balance condition of the assembly. I don't like to do that because the unit then becomes a "set" with that specific PP indexed to that specific flywheel.
 
Professor! What ever Mac tells you ,or sends you , Take to the bank...,! I met him in 2012,after being out of the early v8 Ford world ,for a long while. His advice was sage. Michael A Becker
 
Take a D-A sander and put the green Scotch Bright type pad on D-A sander, go around flywheel to shine up/clean/scuff. Look for spots that do not shine up, if all is clean and with out large areas that did not clean up you should be good to go.
 
For what it's worth...IMHO....I think you ought to check that flywheel and do whatever it takes to make it right...it's never going to be easier to having it off than right now....Mark
 
flatford8 said:
For what it's worth...IMHO....I think you ought to check that flywheel and do whatever it takes to make it right...it's never going to be easier to having it off than right now....Mark
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The flywheel actually looks about as bad as the pressure plate.

So, I think I can hang the back of the engine on the fire wall by clamping it to it so it doesn't have to rest on the block that's holding it up from underneath. If so, what's the trick to removing the oil pan without removing the engine so that I can remove the fly wheel and have it resurfaced? Do I have to disconnect the front motor mounts and lift the front of the engine up or can the pan come out without that?

Thanks for your help.
 
Originaly i think the pressure plate was the problem. Notice how about 1/4 of it looks new and the rest has the blue spots.
 
Marv said:
Originaly i think the pressure plate was the problem. Notice how about 1/4 of it looks new and the rest has the blue spots.
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You could be right but I've decided that I'm so close to doing the job right I may as well finish it and resurface the fly wheel along with replacing the whole pressure plate mechanism and the clutch disk.
 
Old Henry said:
what's the trick to removing the oil pan without removing the engine.
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Found this but one question: What are the engine splash pans?

OilPanRemoval_zps0aba13d5.jpg
 
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Engine Splash Pans are one of those items that owners generally removed once then discarded as a pain in the ars and therefore unnecessary.
 
i use fort wayne clutch to rebuild preasure plates and discs they know what there doing.some shops just throw the flywheel on the grinder and go at it.you should always ck for run out on the machine and correct it before you grind,meaning make sure the flange surface of the flywheel is true and clean that way it will wind up done correctly.
 
all the advice here is great just one thing I had with my 1950 '' had the clutch out 3 times '' the machine shop I went to the first 2 times surfaced the fly whl. on a surface grinder the 3rd time I had it done by a shop that used a milling machine, that fellow told me that the problem was because it was shaped like a dinner plate works great now hope this helps
 
Well, point taken. I apologize for that since I logged on much later. Again, my apologies. But I have to ask, do you know what an engine splash pan is and can you describe it to the rest of us? Since Old Henry has you on ignore mode maybe we can pass it on to him. We all need to learn!!

Lonnie
 
Binx said:
Well, point taken. I apologize for that since I logged on much later. Again, my apologies. But I have to ask, do you know what an engine splash pan is and can you describe it to the rest of us? Since Old Henry has you on ignore mode maybe we can pass it on to him. We all need to learn!!

Lonnie
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Binx...No apology necessary!

ENGINE splash pans were fitted on many years of the old Fords from the factory. Many ideas floating around as to their necessity, but the most common theory was to keep road splash from getting to the spark plugs. Normally mounted between engine and frame. Many of the original splash pans were trash-canned at their first removal for maintenance and cease to exist on many surviving cars today. I've posted an example (thank you Randy) in the pic below. DD

171749
 
V8COOPMAN said:
Binx...No apology necessary!

ENGINE splash pans were fitted on many years of the old Fords from the factory. Many ideas floating around as to their necessity, but the most common theory was to keep road splash from getting to the spark plugs. Normally mounted between engine and frame. Many of the original splash pans were trash-canned at their first removal for maintenance and cease to exist on many surviving cars today. I've posted an example (thank you Randy) in the pic below. DD

171749
Click to expand...
... The ENGLISH versions can usually be recognized by their accent and bad teeth.
 
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