Can't get the front brake drum on

Bob C said:
I did a search and there is mention of grinding away some of the lower edge of
the centering plate if it is hitting the shoe.
See top right of page 4 http://www.ocmafc.com/techarticles/BrakeFloaters-2.pdf

Bob
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Yes Bob, you're right about the issue of perhaps grinding away some of the lower edge of the centering plate, however I didn't have to do that in this case. All Flathead Ted's parts appeared to fit nicely.

I'm hoping the arcing of the drums to the linings will then give me the clearance to allow my drums to freewheel so that I can begin the adjustment process.
 
4port said:
Have you measured the drum inside diameter. That looks like a cast iron repo drum. I know the Plasmeter cast iron drums had extra meat on them that needs to be trued up in a lathe after they are mounted to the hubs to make them concentric. Also the hub flange should be faced before installing the drum on the hub. Then arc the shoes. Not sure about the Mel Gloss drums, are they undersized also for truing. I still have 2 sets of Plasmeters on the shelf, no need for the Gloss drums yet.
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The drums are the ones which were on the car which looked good to use during this restoration. They worked fine when the car was being driven, so I had no cause to think they were the problem issue. I do have another set of drums which I just may try one to see the fit.
 
4port said:
Have you measured the drum inside diameter. That looks like a cast iron repo drum. I know the Plasmeter cast iron drums had extra meat on them that needs to be trued up in a lathe after they are mounted to the hubs to make them concentric. Also the hub flange should be faced before installing the drum on the hub. Then arc the shoes. Not sure about the Mel Gloss drums, are they undersized also for truing. I still have 2 sets of Plasmeters on the shelf, no need for the Gloss drums yet.
Click to expand...

Randy told me they do a .010 truing up after the hubs are installed.
 
It looks to me as though the wedge is not all the way up. Do you have too many pills in there? Great pictures. Very clear.
 
No experience with FHT components, but --
Number 18, pictures 1 and 2, definitely show the large disc holding the rollers off the wedge and not allowing the shoes to retract all the way against the wedge.
I've had to grind material off that disc so the rollers can retract all the way.
Al
 
Al 29Tudor said:
No experience with FHT components, but --
Number 18, pictures 1 and 2, definitely show the large disc holding the rollers off the wedge and not allowing the shoes to retract all the way against the wedge.
I've had to grind material off that disc so the rollers can retract all the way.
Al
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I agree, and if it was mine I'd take that disc to my lathe and trim it down.
 
You need to look at the Flathead Centering plate and make sure it isn't cockeyed. When the anchor bolt is tightened, look to compare how it is located in relation to the old centering plate pins. Also look to be sure the inside rollers are in contact with the centering plate. The reason for turning the pins around is to keep the pin head off the old centering plate and let the roller itself contact the new centering plate. Trouble is the cotter pin can catch on the old plate and keep the shoe from retracting all the way. If it isn't too much trouble take the shoes off and take a picture of the anchor bolt with the new centering plate and wedge tightened and in place.
 
In picture #4, it looks like the brake actuating arm is pulled back at least 15 degrees rather than sitting forward about that much. Or maybe things just aren't positioned where they will be eventually. Grasping at straws here.
 
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