Canister filter

moefuzz

moefuzz

Senior Member
Is there a 'correct' way to bypass/remove a canister filter?

Taking the filter out of line and plugging the holes in the block sounds to easy.
Will plugging the holes rob any areas of oil?


The return line that was on the truck when I bought it lasted about 2000 miles. It was a steel line and appeared similiar to steel brake line. And that's what I replaced it with -it lasted about 1000 miles and let go at 3 in the morning 10 miles from home. The local Ford Antique supplier said he does not stock or no of any other return line that is available.



note, this is a 8ba with the tall (truck) canister.
Since I can no longer buy the tall canisters in Canada, I have been running without filter.

I change the oil every 1000 miles (annually), I see no use for the canister or for laying $40 worth of oil down the highway. I just need to know if removal and plugging is acceptable.
This canister is going the way of the dodo bird.





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Put a 1/4" pipe plug in the supply side (rear of block).
And I believe it's a 1/8" plug on the side of the block (return side)
And you're good to go.
 
Hello Moe, you can just plug the origin and destination and all will be well. Remember those canisters are "bypass".
 
I kinda thought so. I actually plugged the holes a month or so back but have avoided driving it until I found the answers.

And yes, it's the big 2 quart style. It had an older NAPA filter in it that was in poor shape. I took the number to Napa and they said it was discontinued some years back. I will retain the canister for originality but that's about all.

Thanks for the replies,

moe

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I have the tall oil filter canister on my 1950 Mercury M68. After a lot of searching and a good parts man found the WIX 51503 filter fits perfectly and comes with the correct gasket.
 
If 51503 fits correctly here are some other numbers that will work.

P52 Baldwin
Hastings lf106

R
 
Moe.....I have a standard '40 Canister and filter but Ive been having a hell of a time with leaking of the return line. I didn't want to just remove the filter, so I made up a copper line that worked 99.9%, but there is still a small leak. One of the guys here on The Barn is sending me a flexible oil line and if it ever shows up I'll let you know how it works ! I just don't feel comfortable not having a filter even if it's a by-pass !

Mike
 
Heres something i thought you might find helpful.
 

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You do realize that is a modification you can make to provide what is sometimes called a 95% full flow system and not an original by-pass oil filter correct? I have the write up that goes with it if you are interested in the modification.

mike42: "I've been having a hell of a time with leaking of the return line."
Something sounds very wrong here. That is a by-pass system which should have a restrictor on the inlet. The return line is basically a gravity feed back to the pan and should be under very little pressure. It is odd that a line with such low pressure would be a leak issue. I would suggest that you check to assure that the restrictor is in place (in should be in the .040 to .060 range). Another Barn member just posted a part number for one in the last couple of days. Without this restrictor in place you are lowering the oil pressure to the engine which is not a good idea at all!
 
A friend's '52 truck leaked like a sieve on the return line, with all the proper pieces in place. It was just a bad surface on the flare of the tubing. Gravity or not, it has as much oil flowing thru it as the inlet.
 
Ross F-1 said:
A friend's '52 truck leaked like a sieve on the return line, with all the proper pieces in place. It was just a bad surface on the flare of the tubing. Gravity or not, it has as much oil flowing thru it as the inlet.
Click to expand...

Volume of oil is the same, but not the pressure. The inlet side would be a full engine oil pressure. The outlet side should be at low pressure.
 
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