Can this engine be repaired?

[Bob C]

I believe this is the tool to install the original center lock wrist pins.

Bob

 

[Dave in MN]

I've dismantled the "well restored" engine today as preparation for sleeving.
I found some cracks in the lower babbits - how bad is this, shall this be repaired? How can this be repaired, soldering?

Nuwala,
Look closely at the bright areas of your removed caps. You will see that the crankshaft has been making contact with the cap in these areas. The darker areas near the parting surface of the cap and block shows that the clearance is/was likely excessive when run. The assembled bearing is slightly oval in shape and the excessive side clearance is allowing the oil cushion to escape more quickly from the bearing than a properly sized and round bearing. It may work for some time yet, depending on how much you can tighten it but you are on the failing side of the bearing life.
Good Day!

 

[andyfresno]

How much shim did you find under the main bearings?

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

You need the correct wrist pin to match the center lock connecting rod upper bushing. The O ring is in the center and is expanded by pushing a tapered slug through in front of the wrist pin. Someone tried a mix and match and messed up and that's why the wrist pin slipped to the side. At least that's how it appears. If you buy new pistons with wrist pins, they should come with the end locks, so you won't have to mess with the center lock O ring.

 

[nuwala]

Thank you.
Attached a picture from what was left from the center lock pin. Good news, the bearings are fine.
I've checked the in the some of the Model A Internet shops, but could not find a set of 4 inner O rings. It seems the end lock type is sold everywhere, but where could I source the inner O ring?

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'm not sure who would have the inner rings, but you will also need the tool to spread the rings as the pin is pushed into place. It's shaped like a bullet.

 

[glenn in camino]

Anything can be repaired. All it takes is money and time.

 

[Mikeinnj]

The original wrist pins used by Ford in the Model A engine used a lock ring centered in the connecting rod. The connecting rod had a two piece bushing with the lock ring in between. The wrist pin had a groove in the center. The wrist pin was inserted with a pointed tool which expanded the lock ring and allowed the pin to enter the rod . There were several tool manufacturers including K.R. Wilson which supplied these special tools. It appears that you have original pistons. Many of the older after-market replacement wrist pins were of this same configuration. Removing the original type wrist pins can be a challenge as the force against the removal of the pin must cause the lock ring to expand out of the center groove. Perhaps a Ford Barn member has a lock ring and then you could machine a tool with one end tapered like the nose of a bullet to install the lock ring..

 

[Kurt in NJ]

To further complicate there are 2 different centerlock rings --page 366 of the service bulletins--
A-6140-A ---0.115-.116 wide
A-6140-BR ---0.126 -.127 wide

i have 2 sets of aftermarket wrist pins, both sets don't have the groove as deep as original pins

I have several sets of new pistons that use the centerlock pins, havn't found the clips or good pins, the piston bosses are the same width and thickness as the end clip type, I figure that I can chuck a wristpin in the lathe and with a radius ground cutter make the groove for the later clips

one of the engines that showed up on my doorstep looked worse than your engine and the bore cleaned up at .040 ---instead of a sleeve and trying to use your existing pistons perhaps a new set of pistons would be a better solution

 

[George Miller]

I agree a new set of pistons is the way to. It is best to not use a sleeve unless you have to.It might not cost that much more.