Can someone measure their brake rods?

jchochole

Senior Member
Can someone who owns a 1926-7 Model T measure your brake rod length for me? From one end to the other? I need a reference point- it is very appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim from IL
 
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I have an early 27 and my brake rods are nicely adjusted. Overall from end to end they measure 54-1/4" long. Earlier rods were a bit longer because they had to reach further back because of the smaller brakes. Hope this helps.
 
Two or three more thoughts on rear brake problem; someone may have shorten the rods because of bad threads or the wrong cams and levers were put on. I think that the 26-27 levers were attached to the cams with one rivet. Could even be that the anti-rattlers are too far forward on the radius rods. If the rods measure as suggested above, you might try removing the anti-rattlers and see if that helps.
 
Luckily my 27 is a stripped down jalopy so all of its bones are showing. Here are some pictures of the brake rod in relation to the arm positions.
 

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Thanks for the measurments and images- I really appreciate you guys! Thanks! Oddly enough my rods look just like the connections in the images- exactly. Just about an inch too short. It is possible that some mods may have been made. I'll try and measure them this week after woork. Thanks again!!!

Jim from IL
 
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Jim;
That inch may not seem like a lot, but having that inch probable would be a world of difference. My first suggestion would be to get new brake rods. Or, I might try cutting back the rods and use those long coupling nuts with lock nuts at each end to add the extra length. The rods might not be round enough to thread easily. My weakest suggestion would be to cut back the rods and weld on a piece to make them the right length. As they are mosly only used as parking brakes that might be OK. Someone with more experience might chime in.
MarkG
 
Don't know if their still available, maybe a "Mom & Pop" parts store near you might still have some left: they were called shock absorber extenders. about 2" long with female threads at one end and male threads at the other. 3/8 NF thread. They were used to adapt modern shocks to older cars. It screwed onto the upper shaft of the shock absorber. They would be perfect for you. It would thread onto the brake rod and the clevis would thread onto the male thread extending your rods about 1 1/2".
 
Great suggestions! I will certainly try the shock extenders! Never heard of those but they sound like they have good potential!
 
I think you should actually determine what is different with your emergency brake system rather than cobble up a fix. You should measure the rods minus the clevis and post the length. I doubt the rear axle is shoved back or frame has stretched, so the fix should become apparent.
 
Yeah if yours don't measure up I would just go find another pair of brake rods. Should be a dime a dozen.
 
Okay fellas, my brake rods are 52" long from end to end. That is shorter than the earlier posted 54 1/4"...do mine seem shrunk?
 
Average price new: $57.00 a pair + shipping. Next question. Where the heck did 2 1/4" go? Are they cut/ welded anywhere and why? Very stupid question: is your hand brake assembly mounted correctly? 3 holes on rt. & lft. of the frame. pivot block bolts for the linkage should be in the 2 outter holes in the frame. The center hole is for oiling the pivot block.
 
Jim;
Just for reference I checked the length of the rods on my 21 they are about 54 1/2 inches long. In order to move the cross shaft the oil holes would have to have been drilled out and two new holes put in as the center to center would stay the same, also that would have changed the position of the cam for neutral.
Ok try this; put your brake lever in the full forward position, assuming that the springs are good in the brakes move the brake lever back and forth till you find where the lever is leaning back as far as it will go with out engaging the shoes. Now check eye center to eye center measurement between the lever at the rear and the lever on the cross shaft. That should give you a good idea of the total length of the complete rod setup. Look at your clevis holding it so you see the "U", measure the distance from the center of the eye to just where the rod starts to exit into the base of the "U" then subtract that from your first measurement. That should tell you about how long the rod needs to be. By having the levers placed so, that should give some slack before the cam in the backing plate starts moving the shoes which should allow you to put the lever in the up right position before the brakes start to engage. Good luck let us know when you get it fixed.
MarkG
 
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My hand-brake assembly seems to be standard and right where the bolt holes are pre-drilled. Nothing modified there- so someone apparently modified/changed my brake rods or cams on the rear drums.

Now- does anyone have a set of brake rods for sale cheaper than the retailers? My 52" shorties- don't cut the mustard. I'll re-measure from rear cam center hole to front attachment and see what exact number I have- but I am pretty sure the standard length will suit me just fine.

Thanks for everyone's help!
Jim from IL
 
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Jim,

Try John Danuser or Dave Huson. They both advertise on the MTFCA swap site. (Encourage them to use the "Swap Meet" section here as well.) They both have a good supply of used parts & John's price may be better on new ones.

Alternately you could find 2 more clevises ($2.50 at Snyder's) & buy some rod & make your own thus avoiding shipping of the over length package. You will end up with 2 adjustable ends but not many will notice.

Jack Innes
 
Thanks Jack, both are great ideas. I would guess that 5/16" rod can't be too pricey from my local store. Maybe that'd be a safe and less costly way to go.

Much appreciated- this is a great forum and thanks to all who helped me troubleshoot this odd problem.

All the best - Jim from IL
 
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