I hope this helps a little in addition to what's been said and it may already be obvious. Electrical components will work using either side of the ammeter as a current source, BUT in order for the ammeter the show the actual relationship of charge to discharge ('lets you know if the battery is being correctly replenished, over charged or depleted), the components must be connected to the output side of the ammeter. You can test this easily by putting a load on one, then the other ammeter terminals. The terminal that causes the ammeter to deflect to "discharge" is the output side. If your A is wired to factory standards, then as stated above, the terminals on the junction box on the firewall come directly from the ammeter and the terminal on the driver's side will be a better terminal than the ammeter itself from which to take tour current. You can test the junction block terminals the same way I said to check the ammeter terminals. Also, make sure your additional components' amperage requirements can be met by your generator and its output adjustment unless you're running an alternator. Also, although you're going to take your current from the junction block, you should check the tightness of the ammeter terminals. BTW, many aftermarket ammeters can cause serious trouble.