camber specs

Alaska Jim

Alaska Jim

Well-known member
I have purchased a 1930 Ford coupe hot rod. it looks to me that the drivers side wheel leans out at the top. I am going to try to find a shop that can correct this, but I do not know what the recommended camber, caster and toe setting are. Again this is a hot rod with a 4" dropped axle of unknown ( to me ) make. I do not know if it is a cast , or forged axle and do not know how to tell the difference. it is also powder coated. I have heard that some can be bent with heat, while others may be bent using hydraulic force. any one have suggestions at what to set camber and caster, and toe? Engine is Y-block Ford, transmission is c-4 Ford, in case that would make a difference because of weight . any help would be appreciated. Thanks ----Jim
 
some one in here will have those specs, a cast axle will have a sharp cast line on the top of axle, a forged axle will have a wide forged line on the top of axle, axles are bent cold, most truck shops that work on straight axles will be able to do the work for you, for get pep boys, big O, or les schawb
 
When the tire leans out at the top on an old Ford axle, it is set correctly. If you stand back and look at the car, draw an imaginary line through the center of the tire. Then draw an imaginary line through the king pin. The two lines should meet at the ground.
In a very light weight rod, if you run radial tires the stock alignment specs may not work the best. Lay the top of the spindles back about twice what the specs call for. If radial tires, toe in should be about 1/32. If bias ply about 1/16 to 1/8 inch.
 
The amount of camber is around 1/2°-1° if I remember correctly and yes, the tire will be leaning out at the top, that was designed in for bias ply tires. Radials typically have 0° camber on newer vehicles but I've always run the standard Ford beam axle camber with radials and haven't seen a down-side to that.
While true about the lines intersecting at the ground all bets are off if you change wheels. A wheel that has different positive or negative offset will affect that and in an extreme case too much positive is harder on the inner wheel bearing. As far as specs go I like 7°caster and like Don I set toe at 1/32" for my radials. I have an old Mor-Drop Model A axle on my '32 coupe and a Super Bell tube axle on a sedan and never really checked the camber but tire wear is normal on both cars.
 
Thanks for the answers guy's. I will get out to the garage later today, get some pictures and check a few things. the wheels are supposed to be 1937 wide 5 artillery style wheels. the front has wide 5 hubs and the rear is 9" ford with adapters for the wide 5 wheels . front tires are 5.50x16 ( think, have to go look again ) bi-ply. and the rears are 700x16 ( got to go look again ) bias-ply . both sets are firestone's. I actually prefer radials, but these are new and were on the car when I bought it. the car now has about 40 miles on it since I got the car. I think the toe needs to be reset, and the bi-ply tires grab rut in the roads sometimes bad other times not so bad. depends on how deep the ruts are. I have found out that the axle is a So-Cal aftermarket forged 4" dropped axle. that does help with some of my concerns. thanks for all your help. it is really appreciated.-----Jim
 
That axle is one of the best Jim. You got lucky there. Blow up the fronts to 28 to 30, they do like to try and steer for you. It can be a handful on some roads.
 
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