cam replacement
- Thread starter harryc
- Start date
denniskliesen
Well-known member
Frustrating. How do you plan to hold the valves up with the springs on unless you can get the springs off without pulling the head off. And if you do get the cam out, what are you going to do with the old lifters? Run them on a different or new cam?
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
Original lifters have a hole in the side that was put there to hold the lifter up out of the way of the cam----but the valve adjustment would only be still good if the replaced cam has the same size base circle
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
Mechanic friend loosened & slid back the convertor, took off the timing chain & changed the crankshaft on a 277 Plymouth V-8, with the engine IN THE CAR! Was it worth it, HEAVENS NO!!!
Bill Amazed
Bill Amazed
good point
George Miller
Well-known member
When I worked for a Ford dealer back in 56-57. I use to change the cams in there V8 engines with out taking the engine out. We got paid by a flat rate for each job. So if you could find a way to save time you made more money. But it was over head valves, which made it much easier. Now if you take the head off you might be able to do it. Just lift the valves and use old fashion spring clothespins to hold them and the lifters up.
George, How did you replace those mushroom lifters on Y-blocks? Hope you didn't run old lifters on a new cam! It was sure a pain trying to snake a lifter up past the crank and rods!
George Miller
Well-known member
They had cam problems on the new cars. It was always the front two cylinders. They had mushroom lifters. Had to use mechanical fingers, grab the mushroom part of the lifter. pull it drown and bring it out the cam bore.It was not real easy.
harry,
I have done this once before. Been a while but here's what I did.
of course removal of at least the carb and intake /exhaust if you wish for more room. valve cover off,. distributor, distributor shafts and oil pump drive removed I released the valve springs with removal of the keepers. Keep the valve springs in and you can wire up the valve lifters with some thin mechanics wire to the valve springs. In doing so you can turn the valve springs to advance the wire up bringing the lifter up.
remove the cam, reinstall new with timing gear of your choice and make sure all is aligned. adjust all lifters to desired clearance. You can use the service bulletins rule of 9 I believe in the stock Model A bulletins.
I removed a HP cam and went back to a stock touring cam.
Larry Shepard
I have done this once before. Been a while but here's what I did.
of course removal of at least the carb and intake /exhaust if you wish for more room. valve cover off,. distributor, distributor shafts and oil pump drive removed I released the valve springs with removal of the keepers. Keep the valve springs in and you can wire up the valve lifters with some thin mechanics wire to the valve springs. In doing so you can turn the valve springs to advance the wire up bringing the lifter up.
remove the cam, reinstall new with timing gear of your choice and make sure all is aligned. adjust all lifters to desired clearance. You can use the service bulletins rule of 9 I believe in the stock Model A bulletins.
I removed a HP cam and went back to a stock touring cam.
Larry Shepard
denniskliesen
Well-known member
Like this... I had to take the head off, pistons and rods out so it wasn't all that hard to get the cam out with the engine in the frame.
Attachments
Yes, but he asked if you have to remove the head and the answer is no. You do not. I did this in one evening from running to removal and back running. See my lifter "wire up" procedure in above post.
Larry Shepard
George Miller
Well-known member
That's it.
hardtimes
Well-known member
Hey George,
Yup, the ole clothes pin method
! Know it well and just used it not long ago to do same job on a B block.One tip though...try to use new (stronger spring) pins and do not put the old ones (soiled with you know what) back into laundry bag....and think that no one will notice
!!
hardtimes
Well-known member
George Miller
Well-known member
Hey George,
Yup, the ole clothes pin method
One tip though...try to use new (stronger spring) pins and do not put the old ones (soiled with you know what) back into laundry bag....and think that no one will notice
I still have the ones from the Ford garage. I also used them in my Dads repair garage. I also used them here a couple of times. I think they are a little black for the clothesline now.
remove the cam, reinstall new with timing gear of your choice and make sure all is aligned. adjust all lifters to desired clearance. You can use the service bulletins rule of 9 I believe in the stock Model A bulletins.
I removed a HP cam and went back to a stock touring cam.
Larry Shepard[/QUOTE]
Larry -did you have any problem getting the keepers back on the valves
I removed a HP cam and went back to a stock touring cam.
Larry Shepard[/QUOTE]
Larry -did you have any problem getting the keepers back on the valves
zzlegend
Well-known member
That's what I just did two weeks ago. Wanted a new cam so I chose Bill Stipes 330 cam and while I had it apart I put in a set of adjustable lifters and a 6.1 head.
I did this, too. Not a big deal. Hardest part was taking radiator and paraphernalia off.
I used the wire in spring method to make very sure a tappet doesn't drop down while cam's out.
I think this can only work with adjustable tappets, only way to get clearances right.
My humble opinion...
I used the wire in spring method to make very sure a tappet doesn't drop down while cam's out.
I think this can only work with adjustable tappets, only way to get clearances right.
My humble opinion...