Cam clean-up?

Most shops have crank polishers, I'd try that on several lpbes just to see what the lobe looked like, I don't think pitting would hurt the lifter just hold alittle more oil. I sue 45 LB spring pressure on all my street engines, including the L100. Most street engines never see 4k revs. JMO
Gramps
 
No chance that I would run it "as is" - have it reground and know that the lobes are right and that you're putting a part in your engine that won't wear out . . . or wear things out that rub against it - the lifters.

I'd contact Pete and see what his thoughts are as far as a good profile . . .
 
I wouldn't want to try that in an engine I was rebuilding. There must be someone that has an 8CM left over from when they wanted a lumpy idle.
 
I get it and don't want to risk using it as is.... I bought the std 4" crank over in Friday Harbor for 300 bucks. I think it was like 250.00 to have it ground. I think it's worth sending the cam out for a pro job. I will contact Pete. Just a side note with Ol Ron's comment and my old hit n miss. This one lunger was stuck solid when it was given to me in '87. Heat, diesel, heat, rinse, repeat I eventually got it free. I bought a 6" hone and started honing it, but there were some pretty bad pits in the cyl wall. I called a guy I had met through Hemmings Motor News to discuss this matter. He said as long as the pits don't connect, just randomly occurring, they didn't hurt a thing, just a bunch of little oil resevoirs. He recounted that years back when racing air cooled VWs they would dimple the cylinder walls with a dremel tool for just that reason. I run this engine for four days in August at about 75 rpm and no load. Different story than what I hope to do with the woodie. My wife has never been to Yellowstone!
 

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Great lookin truck GB, take the wife to Yellowstone in it, remember life is short, grab it while you can
 
GB SISSON said:
I get it and don't want to risk using it as is.... I bought the std 4" crank over in Friday Harbor for 300 bucks. I think it was like 250.00 to have it ground. I think it's worth sending the cam out for a pro job. I will contact Pete. Just a side note with Ol Ron's comment and my old hit n miss. This one lunger was stuck solid when it was given to me in '87. Heat, diesel, heat, rinse, repeat I eventually got it free. I bought a 6" hone and started honing it, but there were some pretty bad pits in the cyl wall. I called a guy I had met through Hemmings Motor News to discuss this matter. He said as long as the pits don't connect, just randomly occurring, they didn't hurt a thing, just a bunch of little oil resevoirs. He recounted that years back when racing air cooled VWs they would dimple the cylinder walls with a dremel tool for just that reason. I run this engine for four days in August at about 75 rpm and no load. Different story than what I hope to do with the woodie. My wife has never been to Yellowstone!
Click to expand...


make sure you get the actual 8CM grind and not some generic flathead grind. There are differences!
 
You mean this one with all the little oil reservoirs that GB pointed out? Like PeteVS, I'd give it a go anyway. :) Jack E/NJ


459979
 
Dang it you guys really know how to confuse a guy. Are these cams hardened on the surface, like maybe I'm past the hard outer shell? This photo depicts a quick pass on a pretty coarse wire wheel on a bench grinder. I have 2 sets of adj lifters, one from a swap-meet, the other from an 8ba I tore down. They look old and hollow and 'johnson-like'. I did my 5 lb-lbs flour sack test (60 inch lbs) and about half need a squeeze in the vice. A sharp file on the bottom says they are very hard on that surface...My jailbars have fat fenders and going back 'in' if original parts fail is miserable. My McGuyver side says run the pits, but my 67 year old aching back and shoulder side says use some covid check to do this part right. My current project has enough McGuyver to make the TV version break out in a cold sweat.
 
If you're havering towards giving it a go, the base circles are not loaded at all so can have pits, the opening side of the lobe is most heavily loaded, so ideally you'd like any pitting there to be minimal. the closing side of the lobe is loaded, but not so heavily so may tolerate heavier pitting.
So how does it stand up to a close inspection of just the lobes, with an emphasis on the opening side?

Mart.
 
I except your criticism, However, I think it's based on aesthetics, not mechanical facts. The declivities offer no impairment to the lifters. Aesthetics is the most expensive part of this hobby and offers little or no improvement to power or economy. I just like to help people.
Gramps
 
When pitting is so extreme as to cross the contact surface, your not talking oil carrying any longer, your talking running a rasp on your lifters. It's crazy!
 
It's obvious to the amount of pitting you can except. I also do this to rustry crankshafts as well. I suppose it's a judgment call, which is based on experience.
Gramps
Send me the cam,I;ll clean it uo and we canconsider if it good enough to run, or just a turd??
No Charge.
G
 
Way to go, Ron.... My experience (though not as much as yours), agrees with yours. My only caveat is that I would never used it on a customer job. But, for myself, what the heck. I've had REALLY good luck using sub-standard, pitted parts, as long as they were genuine, original, Ford-script parts.
 
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