anyone ever use vanderveld cam bearings its an old uk company.i didn know they were still around.i sent for a set of bearings and thats what i got.they are different than anything i saw before they are not babbit coated.they arrear to be bronze or something like that and the holes in them are unique.the centre bearing is special as it has a bigger hole to fed more oil into the bearing while the rest have a small round hole.the holes fedding the rockers are small round holes as well but just below them are two more holes the same size.when i first looked at them i didnt know what they were for.i looked at the back and a small groove connects the two holes so it feeds in a little extra oil.they went in tight and the cam turned by hand so i was happy.i cut the groove deeper and talk about oil full of the overflow pipe.
cam bearings
- Thread starter darrell
- Start date
Motorhead6
Senior Member
I would be a bit leery of using bronze bearings in a cam without a soft metal "shield" (babbit-like material) to prevent wear/galling on the cam bearing surfaces and that provides a sort of lubricating ability. (That is; the soft material will act as a lubricant under certain conditions against the harder cam bearing surfaces) I once manufactured such bearings and had disastrous results. Ended up spinning the bearings inside the block even though I had tried it several times with more and more clearance. Perhaps this is the reason for the additional oiling feature on the ones you have.
Considering the cost and effort required to replace the cam and bearings after the engine is installed, I would opt for a tried and true conventional set of replacement bearings up front.
Considering the cost and effort required to replace the cam and bearings after the engine is installed, I would opt for a tried and true conventional set of replacement bearings up front.
Ole Don
Well-known member
Darrell; if you restrict the outflow at the right side of each rocker assembly, you will get more oil to the left side. All the rockers will be happy that way. The overflow tube can be cut shorter near its end, and the ID is right for a common tap. (10-32?) Install a 1/2 inch long screw with a 1/8 hole drilled through, and it works very well. Cost? About a half a buck.
ive done it the quick and easy way before just pinching the pipe until i get it right.at any rate the motor is gone now i sold it a week after i started it on my engine stand.going into a 56 crown so going to a good home.i done the engine for something to do and i had a lot of parts laying around that would have went for scrap someday if i didnt do something with them.