Calling Ol'Ron, calling Ol'Ron...

I just checked my PM, and your RIGHT, I didn't answer you. However, I remember answering you, I probably forgot to push the right button. At 87 I forget allot of things. SSsssOOoooo??? Why .030?? Why 3 97's? Charley ny for dist great. What cam, any?
Whe building a street engine you low end need torque. The only thing that gives you this is compression and displacement. .060 or .125 would cost almost the same as .030" and give you more displacement and compression. 3 97 for a small engine would would be allot of trouble for local driving even with progressive linkage. However, by blocking off the center card ( leave the carb on) you could have a dual system. For street use install 2" risers under them. Sorry about that
Gramps
Now everybody else will offer their opinions as well.
 
mfirth said:
My opinion is to listen to OL'Ron .....
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I could not agree with you more. Listen to the man!
Nothing like advice from a guy that has "been there and done that" more times than mere mortals such as myself can imagine.
 
Kube, i've read enough of your stuff here & on V8 Times to know you rank right up there too. My last 8BA was inspired a lot by Barners with experience.
 
mfirth said:
Kube, i've read enough of your stuff here & on V8 Times to know you rank right up there too. My last 8BA was inspired a lot by Barners with experience.
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Thanks for the kind words. While I believe I do "okay" I can't help but have admiration for "ol Ron. They guy KNOWS his stuff. I read all of his posts and have learned quite a bit.
 
Thanks. I'll get to CharlieNY for the distributor, I'll block off the centre carb, and I'll go see my machinist and discuss the .060 over versus the .030 over. I'll look into the 2" carb risers.

The cam is a local grind version of the Max1 so you advise using the .060 shims for the springs, correct?

Do you know how much the compression rises with my original Eddie Meyer heads?

One last thing, you did answer me but you had a couple of questions and you suggested I use your personal email. I tried but it bounced back so that is why I started this thread.

Thanks for all the help, I REALLY appreciate it!
 
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Ask your machinist why he wants to stick with the small overbore. Has he documented thin cylinder walls or a core shift with sonic testing, or is he just applying his experience with modern thin wall castings? Like Ron says, "Whe[n] building a street engine you [want] low end need torque. The only thing that gives you this is compression and displacement. .060 or .125 would cost almost the same as .030" and give you more displacement and compression". This has been my experience as well. Back in the day, a lot of guys took these engines to 3 3/8"+.030 or even 3 7/16", so an 1/8" (.125) still leaves you with plenty of meat for the future unless a specific problem exists. You should really talk to your machinist because you should know about any such problems with the block.
 
I reality, I don't kow much about the early cars, other than the trans and reak axles can't stand up to much abuse. In the early street days the 404 Ols engine was king, and cheap, it did't take long before it hot bigger, 324/372?? In 55 the SBC came out and a 283/ Dum cam for $18,75 made more power than 2 flatheads. And then there was the Hemi. Stock cars and racing brought back the flathead. At this point you start by coping what others do, but this way you don't get any better, so you begin to experiment and after 7/8 years we set a track record. You can't believe how proud we were. unfortunately, they??? sabotaged the radiator with small pieces of shop rags . well at least we got their attention.
 
Okay, it has been awhile since I have read Ol Ron's book, so I am going to have to get it out and re-read it. And, check out that chili recipe.:D
 
Okay for us newbies, could someone please point me to 'ol Ron's book? I would love to read it as I am just starting to think about a full rebuild...maybe.


Thanks
 
Kilohertz said:
Okay for us newbies, could someone please point me to 'ol Ron's book? I would love to read it as I am just starting to think about a full rebuild...maybe.


Thanks
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While your in the book mode, Flathead Facts by John Lawson should also be on your list. JWL also posts on Fordbarn.

Learn what works, Why it works and How it works. Keep the flame burning:D
 
To all those who share their lifetime of knowledge with us...THANK YOU good and faithful servants... Chap
 
You don't just stick .060 shims under warn weak
springs. There is a spring test machine that shows
the spring pressure at a set height. They should
all be close to the same pressure. G.M.
 
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