C-4 trans for a 33 FORD
- Thread starter whizzernick
- Start date
whizzernick
Well-known member
OL'RON
I already have a C-4 in my 33 phaeton with 8" rear end and open drive.
It works good but I sure like the look of the original rear end . I am not scraping the old set up ( frame etc ) I will use it on a another car. I am building a new frame that will have hyd brakes (to Stop) My 21 stud motor will have eddie myers heads and 2 2's --36 LB block - headers---- My new quest and I am getting close . Is using a C-4 with short tail housing--output shaft with bolt on yoke. These were used in Ford vans. I found one to day but it will only work on a late C-4 (will not work on early C-4 65 to ? . All my c-4's are early style so I will have to get a different converter. My converter is the 24 spline turbine shaft type . I will need the later one (26 spline) I am told the shift pattern is also better with later C-4. Just when you think you know something you find you know next to nothing. I have also thought of a short driveshaft that hooks up to closed drive--
A U-joint that is ford six spline on rear and will fit to the C-4 ( long tail shaft )
The problem is both would be slip and only one should slip the other should be bolted solid( any Ideas ) ?????
I already have a C-4 in my 33 phaeton with 8" rear end and open drive.
It works good but I sure like the look of the original rear end . I am not scraping the old set up ( frame etc ) I will use it on a another car. I am building a new frame that will have hyd brakes (to Stop) My 21 stud motor will have eddie myers heads and 2 2's --36 LB block - headers---- My new quest and I am getting close . Is using a C-4 with short tail housing--output shaft with bolt on yoke. These were used in Ford vans. I found one to day but it will only work on a late C-4 (will not work on early C-4 65 to ? . All my c-4's are early style so I will have to get a different converter. My converter is the 24 spline turbine shaft type . I will need the later one (26 spline) I am told the shift pattern is also better with later C-4. Just when you think you know something you find you know next to nothing. I have also thought of a short driveshaft that hooks up to closed drive--
A U-joint that is ford six spline on rear and will fit to the C-4 ( long tail shaft )
The problem is both would be slip and only one should slip the other should be bolted solid( any Ideas ) ?????
blucar
Well-known member
A little off topic, but maybe not really...
I know of several applications of the Ford C-4 transmissions in mid '30 through '50 Buick's behind very big, powerful Buick straight eights, as a replacement for worn out Dynaflows..
Have a friend that has a '37 Buick Century coupe with the 320 CID engine that is built to the max, it is a twin turbo engine.
The car is ran in the vintage class drags on a regular basis.
With just a little work the C-4 can be built up into a great trans. just like the GM 2004R..
I know of several applications of the Ford C-4 transmissions in mid '30 through '50 Buick's behind very big, powerful Buick straight eights, as a replacement for worn out Dynaflows..
Have a friend that has a '37 Buick Century coupe with the 320 CID engine that is built to the max, it is a twin turbo engine.
The car is ran in the vintage class drags on a regular basis.
With just a little work the C-4 can be built up into a great trans. just like the GM 2004R..
whizzernick
Well-known member
OL'RON
to answer your concerns. I will be using a 36 LB with Eddie Meyer's heads and Eddie Meyer's two 2's and headers. I believe this will be enough horsepower for me. As to the stopping I will be using hydraulic brakes. I plan to use 354 rear end gears. I believe with that lower rear end ratio the car's performance will be similar to original motor with 354 gears. Please let me know what you think of my plan. This new setup for me will replace my present setup. Right now my 33 phaeton has a late-model Ford engine. With four barrel (small correct carburetor) headers. C4 transmission with open drive – 8 inch rear end. Using general jumbo wheels . This set up works very well .I'm pleased with performance. But I am always looking to improve my cars and a project like this also keeps me out of the bars and honky-tonk's I also enjoy setting up drivetrain etc. I think you mentioned having to cut the frame. All I did was remove center crossmember and fabricate a new one that the C4 would mount to - it bolts in to the original rivet holes. I also had to fab a rear crossmember to hold traction bars that mount on 8" rear end. I am using original rear spring. speedway has the nessessary weld on parts.
I guess to sum it up I want 21 stud motor with original look under car.
to answer your concerns. I will be using a 36 LB with Eddie Meyer's heads and Eddie Meyer's two 2's and headers. I believe this will be enough horsepower for me. As to the stopping I will be using hydraulic brakes. I plan to use 354 rear end gears. I believe with that lower rear end ratio the car's performance will be similar to original motor with 354 gears. Please let me know what you think of my plan. This new setup for me will replace my present setup. Right now my 33 phaeton has a late-model Ford engine. With four barrel (small correct carburetor) headers. C4 transmission with open drive – 8 inch rear end. Using general jumbo wheels . This set up works very well .I'm pleased with performance. But I am always looking to improve my cars and a project like this also keeps me out of the bars and honky-tonk's I also enjoy setting up drivetrain etc. I think you mentioned having to cut the frame. All I did was remove center crossmember and fabricate a new one that the C4 would mount to - it bolts in to the original rivet holes. I also had to fab a rear crossmember to hold traction bars that mount on 8" rear end. I am using original rear spring. speedway has the nessessary weld on parts.
I guess to sum it up I want 21 stud motor with original look under car.
