BW R10 governor

whb52ford

whb52ford

Senior Member
Can I use any BW R10 governor? Chevy, Studebaker, Nash, etc I'm guessing the gear would be different. I have two governors that look alike. One is TGE-4037 and TGE-4086. What are these numbers? Any cross reference books?
 
I think you can run any governor. Be sure to clean the points up, make sure everything spins free, and the length of the shaft where the gear clips on is the same.
 
If the rubber boot is on it then take that off. Remove the screws on the cover and you will see the points underneath. You can spin the governor with a drill motor to watch them operate. I believe I cleaned mine up with a small file. You can test after with a continuity tester and the drill motor.
 
This morning I pulled it off. I put a rubber hose over the end of the governor gear and put a bolt in the other end. Put in the drill and when I spun it, it made contact. Did it several times. Did not see this till now. Now I'm thinking that is not my problem
 
It only works some of the time.

I have cleaned the points in the relay and I know its letting the juice through it. I installed a little light inside that when the relay fires, the light comes on and so should the solenoid. So far both have been working.

Yesterday the inside light would not come on. So either the relay is not firing or the relay is not making a good connection. When I went under the hood and grounded the relay I could hear the relay and the solenoid click. (two clicks). I had and hour highway to travel home so I jumped the governor at the relay to ground. Yes I had to start in OD, but I needed to get home. My thought process was the governor was not sending the ground to the relay. I have had the governor wire bullet come loose, but it appeared tight. I sprayed it with contact cleaner and bench tested the governor and every time I stopped and started the drill it worked. This was a brand new governor that I put on ??? 20 years ago.

Have not taken it for a test drive yet.
 
Curious as to why you think the kick down switch may be the problem.

What I do know is yesterday when it was working, and I pushed a little to hard on the accelerator, it would kick down, so I know at least that part is working. I could check to make sure all the screws are tight, but they all look good. Will do that tomorrow.
 
Well, the ground path has to go through the kick down to reach the governor. Also, the lockout switch is a possible problem if you have one in the circuit, for the same reason
 
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As Ken says, the kickdown switch is in the circuit that takes the ground to the relay. The wiring on the cars are old, and connections and wiring develop resistance. There are four connections on the kickdown, two are for the governor wiring. You are on the right track by determining that the governor circuit is intermittent. Check all the wiring and connections between the governor and the relay. You might even loosen/wiggle/retighten all the connections.
 
I don't have a lock out switch, so that is not an issue

OD was added to the car maybe 20 years ago, so the wiring is not that old. I replaced all the original wiring years ago because the insulation was coming off. These wires are good, but I do need to check the kick down switch to make sure the screws are tight. Will do that tomorrow.
 
All the screws were tight at the kickdown. I think the relay is clicking but not the solenoid. I have taken the relay apart twice, cleaned the contacts and tested it. It looks good. I put in an over ride switch that powers the solenoid. Took it for a spin and OD was not working. When I got up to 30 I flipped the OD switch, let off the gas, and bingo, it shifted right in.

A few years back I gutted a relay and bought a modern 6v 40a relay. It plugs into the modern socket, kind of like a flasher. I put that on the car tonight. Will see if that fixes it.

So if that fixes it, what is the problem with my relay. It clicks, points close, but it's not letting the power through the points?
 
At the relay, if I ground the relay, the relay clicks, but not the solenoid. When the relay clicks, it should engage the solenoid. Have not taken the cover off the relay again, but I'm positive I will see the contacts in the relay closing, yet it is not sending power to the relay. If I go from power on relay to solenoid it clicks, so the solenoid is good. I just don't know why that relay does not send power when the points are closed.
 
Contacts could be bad.
There are also contacts located in the solenoid itself. You could have a looses connection at one of the bullet connectors.
 
Solenoid fires as it should. I did have the wire break where it is attached to the solenoid awhile back. I wire tied each side of the bullet connector to the frame on governor so it should not come out. Still don’t know why I’m not getting juice through points on relay.
 
With the governor terminal grounded at the relay and the ignition switch on, have you checked for voltage at the solenoid terminal, both sides of the kick down switch, and at the solenoid?
 
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