Buying a flathead

Like a lot of you folks out there, I work on my own stuff too. I like the process of building one up to good condition but I don't like doing any more than I have to either. I used to thrash things pretty hard in my early years but sure did get tired of fixing the results of all that so I take pretty good care of my stuff these days. If I won big on the lottery, I might have a different outlook but the chances are not in my favor at this stage of the game.
 
Hotrodshelly said:
Hi there all! I'm looking at wanting to buy a flathead motor my price ceiling would be$7500. I imagine an 8ba would be the best option? I have a stock 34 Tudor sedan with a 21 stud ( non running nor hooked up) car has been partially dissembled. I'm looking at plug and play, want a car that can Cruze 80-85 mph on Hwy and can spin tires at a stop light. Never driven a flathead before so I'm not sure their limitations.

I have read through the original thread several times, and the responding comments all of which are very good, maybe not practical, but good reading.
When I found my '39 Convertible sitting in a field in Montana, where it had sat for 38 years, it was love at first sight. The farmer that owned the field and had owned the car, since 1951 was glad that I wanted the car, he gave it to me, he was glad to see it gone.
I like Hotrodshelly had big idea's, the only difference it was not my first Rodeo. The '39 was complete, very little rust-out. A complete survey of the car revealed that the chassis was shot, broken in several places from pounding across Montana's unimproved roads. I wanted the car to be a driver, able to safely cruise the hiway at 70 plus, safely stop when the traffic went crazy and have modern car features.It was decided that the best avenue would be a new chassis, with modern features.
Sixteen years later and $95 K, the car was done. Do I regret the cost to build the car, no... It looks like a '39 convertible, however, it runs and drives like a late model, ie; 2005 vehicle, that being the age of the majority of the mechanical components..
Click to expand...
 
Bill boomer has a 39/41 flatty up for consideration. Just curious what people's opinion are? I know flatheads can get expensive and I actually have zero knowledge of what the work he has done or if this is what I might want? I could be partially clueless from shiney engines from car magazines and anything shiney = quality. This sounds fairly stock, which I was thinking more of a totally rebuilt motor with almost everything new except the block. I'm not trying to be ignorant or naive just looking for honest opinions

I copied his listing description from kijiji out of Regina.

"Fresh build flathead sleeper motor. I have built a lot of flatheads over the years and this will be one of my last ones. Good for late 30's to early mid 40's. Block is a rare 39 to 41 Mercury with the factory relief. Block was bored to 3-5/16" and has the addition of a 4" Mercury crankshaft. Engine has gone from 239 cu. in. to 276 cu. in. Crankshaft was ground and polished after being hot tanked and sono fluxed. Engine was aligne honed. New main and rod bearings. Rods were reconditioned. Entire rotating assembly was balanced as a unit. Pistons are 3 ring. Cam was polished and checked for straight. Valve train is all new with 16 stainless valves. Lincoln Zeypher springs etc. New Johnston adjustable lifters. Heads were milled to ensure straightness and piston pockets massaged to give approximately .045 clearance between head and pistons. Flywheel is refaced. 2 piece oil pan. New Melling 19 oil pump. Comes with a rebuilt crab style distributor, rebuild fuel pump, new Champion H-10c spark plugs and new wires and rebuilt 6 volt starter. Also included is a set of chrome acorn nuts for heads and intake. Chrome spark plug wire looms included. Lots of stainless bolts were used on the external parts. Everything on this motor is top quality. Please call for more info or pics. Delivery can be negotiated. Thanks Bill"
 
The pre-war 239 cid engines are fewer and farther between but they are a genuine 239 base block. If as advertised, it would be equivalent to any of the post-war 59 series and he definitely set it up for larger displacement. Sounds like it is in the ballpark. Stock cam would make it a real good low end torquer and it would stay smoother that way. Some folks like the lumpy cams but they lose a fair bit of low end when it's set up that way. They sure run good on top end though depending on the grind.
 
Last edited:
I had Jerry Livingston owner at United Engine Specialists in Wichita Ka. build an 8BA for me turn key, 4 barrel Edelbrock, polished aluminum Offy intake and heads, Oversize Chev hardened valves, 3/4 Isky cam, Zerco springs, Merc crank for exactly that $7500, $300 extrea delivered to NE Pa.
http://www.unitedengine.biz/united_004.htm

Runs great, shouldn't but have had it over 80 mph no problems and had more a lot more throttle, :D :eek:. No Traffic situations.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top