Building up my 59AB

Rustedjunk

Rustedjunk

Senior Member
Looking for some advice on what would be the best way to go. I'm rebuilding my tired 59 AB and I'm weighing the difference of getting a 49-53 Mercury crank and pistons, have the crank checked and turned, use my current rods, and buy new bearings. Or go with a 4" stroker kit and call it a day.
 
You can generally still find a decent 4" stroke used crank out there but it might take some time. I haven't checked the prices lately but they should still be better for used than they would be for a new reproduction type. The new ones sometimes required a fair amount of balance work from what I've heard on the grape vine. You can use the floaters on the later Merc 4" crank with no problems or you can use 8BA type rods. Some offset grind for more stroke but the bearings are smaller. Floater type bearings are good bearings so that isn't a big cause for concern.

The 4-inch crank doesn't give you a whole lot more power or size by itself but it does give some. If you open the bores up, you can get a noticeable increase in performance depending on how big the bores end up.
 
I had said the Mercury crank because that's what I was told to do for a little more power. I trying to get a little more power out of my Flathead. I'm wanting to do street/cruise, and 1/4 track mile once in awhile. What do you suggest?
 
I always think of the application vs Cost. If you just want a driver, just bore it to 3 5.16 install a set of Egge 3 ring pistons, Eab heads on the 59 block and you;ll have a nice driver at a reasonable cost You won't even have to have the thing balanced with the original crank assy. Built a bunch of these back in the day.
 
There ya' go Ron, your old favorite, the 258 (mine too!). 3 cubes bigger than using a Merc crank for zero additional cost.
 
It all comes back to, how enthusiastic about the project are you?
If you are living on welfare, go as close to stock as you can.
If you are reasonably comfortable, go 3/8 x 3/8. It is not all that expensive for a big STREET engine and DO NOT let anyone tell you the cubic inches don't matter in a flathead.
Once you step on the throttle of a 296 you will be hooked forever.
 
Pete has it right, I've build quite a few Big engines fron 284 to 294 and just recently Two 294's. This is a money build but the acceleration is indescribable.The last one is blown as well and I'm looking forward to riding in it.
 
Thanks Ron and Pete. I'm in the reasonable comfortable. Can you explain a little more of the 3/8 x 3/8 build?
 
Ol' Ron said:
I always think of the application vs Cost. If you just want a driver, just bore it to 3 5.16 install a set of Egge 3 ring pistons, Eab heads on the 59 block and you;ll have a nice driver at a reasonable cost You won't even have to have the thing balanced with the original crank assy. Built a bunch of these back in the day.
Click to expand...



Who should I go through for the Egge pistons?
 
Rustedjunk said:
Thanks Ron and Pete. I'm in the reasonable comfortable. Can you explain a little more of the 3/8 x 3/8 build?
Click to expand...

I would use a Merc crank rather than an aftermarket one. Easier to balance and cheaper. 21A magged and reconditioned rods.
I would NEVER put cast pistons in a performance engine even if it is to be primarily a street engine. Almost all forged piston manufacturers will make street pistons which are quiet and can be set at close clearance for good oil control.
The cam will have to be chosen for your driving style and what you primarily intend to use the car for. Do NOT choose a cam that is too big.
Use a 9 inch performance clutch. It helps the engine spool up quicker.
Use "W" type headers.
Use 30 degree valve seats on both in. and ex.
The rest of the stuff is pretty much just what you prefer.
 
Pete said:
I would use a Merc crank rather than an aftermarket one. Easier to balance and cheaper. 21A magged and reconditioned rods.
I would NEVER put cast pistons in a performance engine even if it is to be primarily a street engine. Almost all forged piston manufacturers will make street pistons which are quiet and can be set at close clearance for good oil control.
The cam will have to be chosen for your driving style and what you primarily intend to use the car for. Do NOT choose a cam that is too big.
Use a 9 inch performance clutch. It helps the engine spool up quicker.
Use "W" type headers.
Use 30 degree valve seats on both in. and ex.
The rest of the stuff is pretty much just what you prefer.
Click to expand...



Thanks Pete. I was thinking of staying with the original crank. I can be convinced either way though. I cant find a Mercury crank at a decent price. And when I do the guy wants an arm and a leg for it. Out of state I've seen ones go for $250 to $400, and near Minnesota $500-$800 and look worse than my ex girlfriend.
 
I just built my first 59ab in my garage and use a 8ba crank and rods . Insert bearing
I was lucky and found some very helpful guys here and had all NOS ford replacement parts
I don't think it cost $1000 for the rebuild
The 59 runs great for a shade tree job . Going this route I was able to do the work . I've heard those floaty 59 crank bearing take some skill .
 
I buy them from Egge. Just Google them The 3/8 X 3/8 is the 296 and was very popular back in the day. Punching them to 3 7/16 was the 304. These needed a big cam, and Ross pistons.
 
I think the best value in a oversize stroker is to buy a complete assembly. It will be balanced and include all the parts at a lower cost than rebuilding-reconditioning.
 
Ol' Ron said:
I buy them from Egge. Just Google them The 3/8 X 3/8 is the 296 and was very popular back in the day. Punching them to 3 7/16 was the 304. These needed a big cam, and Ross pistons.
Click to expand...



Thanks Ron for the information. Could I get away with just keeping my 59A crank and rods while going with the 3/8 bore pistons?
 
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