Building Burtz block

In case anyone thinks this is a good thing, the height of the lifter has no effect on performance because the total length of the lifter + valve lash + length of the valve must be a fixed quantity. If you substitute a longer lifter without changing anything else, your valve lash will be inadequate and you'll have to grind down the valve or adjust the lifter.

I never said anything about performance!

I never said anything about anything being good or bad.

Just stated the facts.

If you mix Original A and Original B camshafts and/or Original A and Original B lifters the result is damage of cam and lifters. The exhaust valve lash on Original B camshafts is larger by 0.007 also.
 
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Grinding valves now .
 

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Yes Burtz recommended.077 for width,older engine I worked on recommended 1/16 of and inch.0625 so quite close in size .
 
I'm sure Terry has looked into it, but ordinarily, a notch like that is a stress raiser and is something to avoid.
 
I'm sure Terry has looked into it, but ordinarily, a notch like that is a stress raiser and is something to avoid.
I installed the O-ring bolts in my Burtz and they haven't snapped yet. :rolleyes:

Having said that, I don't recall whether they are cut flat-bottom or curved bottom. The stress riser would concentrate on the sharp edge of the bottom of the cut. Typically O-ring grooves are cut flat bottom to give the rubber space to migrate under compression.
 
I'm sure Terry has looked into it, but ordinarily, a notch like that is a stress raiser and is something to avoid.
Also my concern. They do appear to be sharp cornered but still leaving as much meat as the smaller part of the stud.
 

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I installed the O-ring bolts in my Burtz and they haven't snapped yet. :rolleyes:

Having said that, I don't recall whether they are cut flat-bottom or curved bottom. The stress riser would concentrate on the sharp edge of the bottom of the cut. Typically O-ring grooves are cut flat bottom to give the rubber space to migrate under compression.

Having assembled 25 Burtz engines early on, I machined the "O" ring groves myself before Terry was offering bolts with the groves. I always machined the groves with radiused bottoms. The square groves are definitely a stress riser.

Chris W.
 
you really dont need the grooves,if you make an installer so,the o ring doesn't get cut slipping it inpast the main bearing bore it will sel on the small diameter of the stud and oil pressure will push it up to the taper part of the stud, and there it will stay.
lawrie
 
you really dont need the grooves,if you make an installer so,the o ring doesn't get cut slipping it inpast the main bearing bore it will sel on the small diameter of the stud and oil pressure will push it up to the taper part of the stud, and there it will stay.
lawrie

I just finished assembling one for a customer and what I did was to use the larger O-rings which were spec'd out in the earlier builder's guide that seal on the smaller diameter of the stud, as you mentioned. I wiped a ring of RTV around the smaller diameter, inserted the stud and then took a piece of .001" brass shim stock to guide the O-ring in without cutting it and inserted a couple O-rings on each stud. Then I took a piece of the correct diameter tube (also spec'd in the earlier builder's guide) and pushed the O-rings down into the RTV which made everything seal up perfectly. The key is to work quickly and get everything into place before the RTV sets up. I got everything torqued down and let the RTV set up overnight, then I came back and plastigauged the bearings. So far, not a single leak!
 
Hello, took a ride to Snyders and picked up parts . The lifters are Colony manufactured,as recommended in previous posts.
 

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I live near Erie ,Pa … let that place be avoided until grass grows in its streets…. 1853 Horace Greeley , about 2 hours away ,but any how got back working on Burtz , installed cam and valve train .
 
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