Bubba

Prawbly

Prawbly

Senior Member
Good evening

I've been away from this thing for a while and was curious about Bubba. I knew he was taking a break for a while, but I was wondering if he is back or still gone. I anyone has a number for him I would love to have it.


Thanks, Pat :)
 
I talked to Bubba this afternoon. I sent him an email last week and I didn't hear back from him so I thought I would give him a call. He is still in the process of moving. I packaged up a H&C dual coil / dual points ignition with misc parts for him to rebuild for me.
His phone number is: 317-487-9460
 
Bubba, I re-read your page http://www.bubbasignition.com/timing-page-2.html

Should not the index slide be clockwise from centre for initial advance ?

Normally, if the points are set correctly, the Index slide will be one notch counter-clockwise from center ... not centered. No matter what, it needs to be set on each distributor. Each notch represents 2 distributor or 4 crankshaft degrees. This means that on an 11A distributor you can expect 22 degrees of mechanical advance PLUS 4 degrees for each notch. If you want more than 34 degrees (!) at the third notch, you can fiddle with the point gap and squeeze out a little more advance.
 
pooch said:
Bubba, I re-read your page http://www.bubbasignition.com/timing-page-2.html

Should not the index slide be clockwise from centre for initial advance ?

Normally, if the points are set correctly, the Index slide will be one notch counter-clockwise from center ... not centered. No matter what, it needs to be set on each distributor. Each notch represents 2 distributor or 4 crankshaft degrees. This means that on an 11A distributor you can expect 22 degrees of mechanical advance PLUS 4 degrees for each notch. If you want more than 34 degrees (!) at the third notch, you can fiddle with the point gap and squeeze out a little more advance.
Click to expand...

These remarks were from a discussion on the barn from other people ..

The crab and helmet have the adjustment on different sides ( crab on right and helmet on the left facing the engine) Rotation on both is counter clockwise. Against rotation would be advance. I usually set the contacts to proper dwell with advance centered on a machine and then advance one mark ( seems to start good from that point)
 
So are you saying if we have a timing light, 26 degrees is best ?

,,22 mechanical at crank plus 1 notch on slider for 4 at crank?

I have a 221 pilot engine with crab that does not ping to let me know anything.

No vac brake , piston is removed.

I want max low down torque, not high RPM power.
 
pooch said:
So are you saying if we have a timing light, 26 degrees is best ?

,,22 mechanical at crank plus 1 notch on slider for 4 at crank?

I have a 221 pilot engine with crab that does not ping to let me know anything.

No vac brake , piston is removed.

I want max low down torque, not high RPM power.
Click to expand...

26 degrees has worked for most flatheads. The chevrolet crowd want to use 34-36 and that just dont work . Looses power on dyno testing etc..
Should always run the piston and leather even if not hooked up with a light tension, gives a slight retard for starting, helps the advance return to zero and stablizes the timing at different rpms. Without the piston the advance ring jumps around quite a bit causing some erratic spark....
Pretty hard to make a low compression flathead ping with todays fuel i have noticed...
 
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