Brookville passenger fender
- Thread starter Chucks32
- Start date
I'll assume you're asking about the gap between fender and running board. cut the fender about 1/4 inch from the attachment flange, pull it around to the running board, weld in a pie shaped piece to fill the gap. Check the front of the fender to make sure it isn't pinched in to far before doing anything.
kelley's restoration
Well-known member
if you look at the frame and the fender there is a gap there also
try bolting it to the frame first
tk
try bolting it to the frame first
tk
Karl Wescott
Well-known member
Try fitting things first.
CLAMP the running board to the front fender and (loosely mounted) rear fender, then block up to hold the running board to the frame. The headlight bar should also be loosely mounted to the front fender. Things may move around enough for a good fit.
CLAMP the running board to the front fender and (loosely mounted) rear fender, then block up to hold the running board to the frame. The headlight bar should also be loosely mounted to the front fender. Things may move around enough for a good fit.
jackandeuces
Member
I have seen 32s where running boards and fenders were bolted together and they were lifted upward ... My fix on Brookville fenders was to .. first level the running boards with two 4x4s from left to right then split fender where they meet running board.. Had to remove about 1/2 inch at frame to nothing at out side.. on one fender and just oppose on the other. This allowed the fender and board to become level to ground...
jackandeuces
Member
jackandeuces
Member
metalman
Member
I dought you'll make it fit without cutting / welding the fender. The Brookville fenders I used on the Vicky I'm building fit exactly like yours, I cut and welded a pie shape piece in. From what I understand it's do to a poor stamping that Brookville outsouced but now they are stamping them themselves, new ones fit much better.
I did several sets of the outsourced fenders which were manufactured by I think Funk? They had the same issues you have. I have since used the new Brookville manufactured fenders and while they have some minor issues the running board to fender fit hasn't been one of them. We have had to massage the fender to frame fit and have done work on the eyebrows so they match, removed the slight hump over the wheel on the passenger side and reworked the rear radius so it matchs the running board more closely.
sturgis 39
BANNED
Have you contacted Brookville? With all of the computer equipment they have and the articles that have written about them they should be able to manufacture more exact copies.
I had the same problem with model A fenders and used washers and clamps. They did not go on as easy as originals.
I had the same problem with model A fenders and used washers and clamps. They did not go on as easy as originals.
sturgis 39
BANNED
What did brookville say?
Chucks32
Senior Member
Brookville replaced the fender. THANK YOU! Brookville said that some running boards have a different angle and they remedy this by taking the spot welded brace off the fender where it would meet the running board and reshaping the fender to closer conform with the board. In addition to this I got mine a little better by working the fender where it meets the frame to pull it in at the top, and that brings the bottom ( running board edge) closer to the board, I can clamp it now and make it all meet under pressure, also had to trim the fronts to match, also fender is a little wide at the fender brace,( not as bad as the first one I had) have to do a little reshaping there. I could make it fit even better if I did not mind running board up on a little angle, but I want running boards level from frame to outer edge. Look at pics of a lot of 32s and you can see the weird angle where fenders meet boards, some up, some down. I just saw a high end 32 for sale and the fender and board were down on a sharp angle where they meet! I want to do some more fitting before paint, I think I will prime them when I think they are ok, refit to car one more time, then remove for final paint. Thanks everyone for your input!
Harms Way
Senior Member
We encountered the same problem with the Deuce Roadster we were building for a pals wife,... Bill had bought some of the first fenders offered by Brookville,... (Made by Funk). The new ones are great!
He didn't want me to cut the back of the fender,.... So I asked him, "Bill,.. can you make us some Coffee ?"
,..... Sure ! he said as he tottled off to the house,..... when he came back,.... I had one cut 
, and said,... well, we might as well make them match !
I made the cut about a half inch from the flange, The other problem we had, was that they were made with deep draw steel and were still pretty soft,... Bill leaned on one and put a dent in it,....
There was a issue with the very first rear fenders as well,... when they crimped the wire in the bead,.. it was to tight and kept the fender from pulling up tight to the body,... the had no twist,.... But !,.. To Brookville's credit, they called Bill before we even mounted them, told him of the problem and said they would exchange them.
In my personal experience, Brookville has been a first rate company to deal with,.... with really great products.
He didn't want me to cut the back of the fender,.... So I asked him, "Bill,.. can you make us some Coffee ?"
,..... Sure ! he said as he tottled off to the house,..... when he came back,.... I had one cut , and said,... well, we might as well make them match ! I made the cut about a half inch from the flange, The other problem we had, was that they were made with deep draw steel and were still pretty soft,... Bill leaned on one and put a dent in it,....
There was a issue with the very first rear fenders as well,... when they crimped the wire in the bead,.. it was to tight and kept the fender from pulling up tight to the body,... the had no twist,.... But !,.. To Brookville's credit, they called Bill before we even mounted them, told him of the problem and said they would exchange them.
In my personal experience, Brookville has been a first rate company to deal with,.... with really great products.
DICK SPADARO
Well-known member
The fender fit issue has been going around for some time, some people have fenders that don't fit left side correctly some don't fit right side correctly. Trying to put a definitive answer to cure the problem has been difficult but from experiences with fenders I have found that in many cases the difficulty in fender fit has not been from the fenders but from the frame curvature arch at the firewall and forward.
It is important to note that the true 32 front fender, viewed from the side, fits to the frame rail and actually drops below the frame to create a triangular void about an 1-1/2" long and about a 3/16" wide at the junction of the running board, fender and frame rail. Trying to close this gap buy pushing the fender upward will distort the fender and create alignment issues.
The second issue with fender fit has been from the frame curvature at the firewall, notice all frames sweep inward at the firewall, this inward sweep arc seems to vary between repro frame manufacturers and is inconsistent between right and left rails even jig welded. Original rails are subject to prior crash damage and frames that have had cross member changes or replacement as well as boxing plate addition also seem to have inconsistency with the inward sweep making fit of the fenders somewhat compromised even if the firewall mount holes align.
Because the fender rear flange fits at an angle any distortion to this dimension amplifies the fit angle of the fender to the running board. Determining if there are irregularities between side to side should be checked with a handmade template matching one side to the other and is an easy way to determine if the frame is correctly contoured.
If you are in the process of chassis construction it is a good idea to trial fit a set of fenders and running boards before final welding and check the dimensions of the frame to a frame blue print to help eliminate probelms but if your car is already constructed, you may have no other choice but to rework the inner flange of the fender.
It is important to note that the true 32 front fender, viewed from the side, fits to the frame rail and actually drops below the frame to create a triangular void about an 1-1/2" long and about a 3/16" wide at the junction of the running board, fender and frame rail. Trying to close this gap buy pushing the fender upward will distort the fender and create alignment issues.
The second issue with fender fit has been from the frame curvature at the firewall, notice all frames sweep inward at the firewall, this inward sweep arc seems to vary between repro frame manufacturers and is inconsistent between right and left rails even jig welded. Original rails are subject to prior crash damage and frames that have had cross member changes or replacement as well as boxing plate addition also seem to have inconsistency with the inward sweep making fit of the fenders somewhat compromised even if the firewall mount holes align.
Because the fender rear flange fits at an angle any distortion to this dimension amplifies the fit angle of the fender to the running board. Determining if there are irregularities between side to side should be checked with a handmade template matching one side to the other and is an easy way to determine if the frame is correctly contoured.
If you are in the process of chassis construction it is a good idea to trial fit a set of fenders and running boards before final welding and check the dimensions of the frame to a frame blue print to help eliminate probelms but if your car is already constructed, you may have no other choice but to rework the inner flange of the fender.