Broken wire coming out of distributor base

[Tanner's]

I'm trying to fire up a project Model A that I have been working on. The wire that comes out the side of the distributor to the lug on the coil is broken. Is there a way to open the distributor and replace this wire easily? It broke right at the distributor so I can't re-solder a wire to it.

Thanks,
Brett

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Do you have a picture of the distributor? The Model A distributor has a screw-in armored cable that is easily changed.

 

[Tanner's]

Here is what I'm talking about. Thanks for your help.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

OK, you have the correct distributor, and by the indent above the screw in cable, it's the early style as used on my 1928 and early 29, but of course will work for any Model A. I'd just unscrew the part you see sticking out, then buy a good replacement cable from one of the Model A parts houses. Be sure you don't screw it in tight, or it may short to ground. About 3 turns in should be fine.

 

[Tanner's]

Thanks for the help. I'm really glad I found this site. I'm sure I'll have many more questions before I get this on the road.

Thanks again,
Brett

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Also note the spring loaded oil cup on the side of the distributor. It's very important to pull the cap out and put a few drops of oil into the cup every 500 miles or so. If the distributor shaft runs dry it can lock up and snap the tang off the shaft.

 

[Tanner's]

Thanks for the tip.

I'm having a hard time finding the replacment cable. Do you know what it is called? I looked at MAC's, Brattons and Mikes. So far no luck.

Thanks,
Brett

 

[Bob C]

They all have them. What year do you have?
Link to Bratton's http://www.brattons.com/product.asp...artPosition=1&strSearchCriteria=any&PT_ID=all

Bob

 

[Tanner's]

Bob C, based on the response above I have a 28 or early 29. I looked at the link you sent but was unable to blow the picture up to verify it is what I'm looking for. I will do some more looking. Thanks for all the help.

 

[SLPreston53]

You need Bratton's part number Part #16370. It is an"armored" cable that runs form the distributor to the instrument panel. The ignition switch is integral with the cable. The wire from the coil runs to the lug on the side of the ignition switch, assuming the other coil wire is correct.

 

[Bob C]

I think 16370 is just the cable for an original pop-out, no switch.
http://www.brattons.com/product.asp...artPosition=1&strSearchCriteria=any&PT_ID=all

Bob

 

[Ted Duke]

You can get great advice her, but IMHO you should also quickly contact your nearest Model A Club and join. Model A'ers are quick to help. The little money it costs to join will be repaid quickly. I am NOT familiar with California, but note that there is a MAFCA club in Bakersfield. There may be another club closer or a MARC chapter. See

http://www.mafca.com/chapters_list.html
http://modelaford.org/

http://bakersfield-mafca.com/

Ted

 

[Lowell Fast]

How do I disassemble the old pop out switch? I have taken out the 4 small screws but the lock will not come apart, I cannot remove the cable. I think I have a short inside the armored cable when I tighten down on the head nut holding the armored cable.

 

[Mike V. Florida]

How do I disassemble the old pop out switch? I have taken out the 4 small screws but the lock will not come apart, I cannot remove the cable. I think I have a short inside the armored cable when I tighten down on the head nut holding the armored cable.

The back plate of the lock is peened over.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

How do I disassemble the old pop out switch? I have taken out the 4 small screws but the lock will not come apart, I cannot remove the cable. I think I have a short inside the armored cable when I tighten down on the head nut holding the armored cable.

Which style popout? The correct later popout used with the round speedometer has a removable back cover as Mike said. The earlier style has an armoured cable that will have to be pulled out of the housing. The housing is potmetal, so use extreme care. A search might turn up pictures that have been posted in the past for the repairs.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you have the removable rear cover on the popout, then replacing the wire isn't too bad a job. Carefully bend back the cover upsets to remove the cover, then bend back the metal holding the wire in place, and unsolder the switch end of the wire. You'll probably need to use a Dremel to grind away the upsets fot the distributor end to pull out the brass contact and wire.