Broken stud removal. It's ugly. Really ugly.

Mart

Mart

Well-known member
Been struggling with Vertigo over the last week or so but had a little sesh yesterday, and got a little bit of video for you.

It didn't go too well.

If you don't try you don't learn.

Check it out.

https://youtu.be/uejfATNVGXk

Mart.
 
Thanks for the vid.

Hang in there with the Vertigo. Can't recall ever being so low.

It'll pass eventually, but takes time.
 
Damn. I don't think I would have tried my oxy torch to burn out a stud. Not sure if you said block was already scrap, but if it isn't I would bring it to a machine shop to have those threaded holes repaired. Keensert has a heavy duty insert that measures 5/8" OD. They may have an extra heavy duty one as well.
 
I have used the torch to blow out bolts, studs in cast iron, when it works it's wonderful, but there's a risk of making the cast iron very hard if it is hot enough and gets supercooled by a blast of oxygen
 
Thanks for the video Mart, I will learn from it. I have what the doctors call atypical Meniere’s disease, no fun when it acts up, needless to say I stay off of roller coasters.:)
 
Mart, I'm really enjoying your videos on the engine(s) journey. I envy you the chance to use the boring bar. You're doing a heck of a job.

Having been subject to the last eight vids, the wifey in the other room wants to know what the heck all the endless tapping is about! LMAO!

At least you're not starting with the rusty lump in that 1969 Capri!!!
 
VT:
Just came in from the pub and literally lol-ing.

Yeah, lots of tapping, very often in a certain rhythm too.

I've also been following the 1969 capri. You don't have to know what you're doing to be entertaining. Funnily enough, Manny doesn't live very far from me.

Mart.
 
Geez Mart, I'm almost sorry I suggested that you try to remove those broken studs. It did teach me one thing : Do what you can, but leave the difficult stuff to the pros.

Thanks again for your videos. They are both instructive and entertaining.
 
Electric welding , mig, tig stick is the way to go as it puts lots of heat in quickly as you know from the first ones you removed. Your other friend is an impact wrench. We all have experienced a time when the biggest cheater bar would not budge a stuck nut , but a few seconds with the impact unwinds it quickly. Weld a nut to the top of the stud like you did the long bar. Sit on the welded nut with the impact and wait for something to happen.
Been there , done that. They WILL all come out.
best of luck, get well
 
Thanks for all the comments, fellas.

It's funny when you watch the videos back, you see things that you didn't realise you'd done. I put the bic lighter right near where I was using the torch. I wouldn't have done that if I was thinking properly.

As long as people learn something and/or find it entertaining I'm happy to share my hobby time. Normally that something is what not to do or that Mart's an eejit.
 
I noticed as well that in the beginning when MIG welding you may have started pulling/pushing on your breaker bar too soon after welding. I think you could have let it cool down a bit more.
 
Yeah, I was wondering about that. The second one had time to cool when I went to cut the ends off the bar. It also had a liittle cool time when the welder nozzle stuck. That one only took two attempts.
The first one was four or five.
The third was about 20 attempts when I gave up on welding.

There are some more broken studs on the other side of that block. I might get set up and have a go at those.

Mart.
 
Since it's a junk block and this is a learning process, I think you might want to sharpen your technique of burnin' 'em out with that Oxy/Acetylene setup. JMO.
 
Mart said:
Yeah, I was wondering about that. The second one had time to cool when I went to cut the ends off the bar. It also had a liittle cool time when the welder nozzle stuck. That one only took two attempts.
The first one was four or five.
The third was about 20 attempts when I gave up on welding.

There are some more broken studs on the other side of that block. I might get set up and have a go at those.

Mart.
Click to expand...
Do: Use a washer/nut.
Do: Turn up the heat.
Do: Use a bit of penetrating oil.
Do: Walk away for an hour.
Don't: Hammer on it. Work hardens and prone to cracking.
Actually best - following these steps - Is to use 312 stainless stick electrode. 128,000 tensile as opposed to 70,000 tensile mig wire.
 
All good stuff Mart! I've had success with welding a big nut to the stud stub and using an impact gun with the added twist of squirting plumber's pipe freezing spray onto the nut until there's ice on it. The thermal shock and contraction of the stud seems to help with breaking the interface. Only problem is the cost of the spray so I only do that when the usual welding trick hasn't worked.
 
Thanks for the helpful suggestions guys.

I've been playing around with some more broken studs today. Zero success to report.

I did manage to adapt a cheapo drilling machine body to clamp to the deck and drill a hole relatively straight, though. That may be a way forward for the really stubborn ones. Drill out to core diameter and pick the remnants out.

Will probably try some more tomorrow.

Mart.
 
One way if you cant get the stud out is to drill it out and then tap to 12 mm ,as you will find often after you get the remains of the thread out the thread in the block is buggered.
One great way I found is to cut the stuck studs off about 1/2 above the block using a 4in grinder and slitting blade, then get a pile of old head nuts drill then out in the lathe to 7/16 and face off one end for a good weld surface,slip them over the stud and tig weld them to the cut off stud, then use an impact gun, this is the best solution I have found so far.
Lawrie
Lawrie
 
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