Broken clutch arm

erdaviesjr

erdaviesjr

Junior Member
My clutch quit working on my 31 pickup while driving recently (stays in gear even with clutch depressed) and I managed to limp back home. I found that I have a broken clutch arm with a crack along the shaft. I pulled the transmission and rebuilt it last April, and I wonder if I damaged that arm in the process?? Anyway, I'm hoping that I don't have to pull the transmission again to replace this arm? Is this an easy fix?
 
clutch arms can break at anytime for a number of reasons. you do not have to pull the trans to replace the arm.
 
The arm is held on by a pin. Should be easy to drive the pin out and take off the arm. I bet the arm cracked at the hole where the pin goes through. Not much metal there. Mine cracked at that spot. Model A suppliers sell a replacement arm, but it doesn't look like an original and it's kind of crude. Better off with an original.
 
Will N said:
The arm is held on by a pin. Should be easy to drive the pin out and take off the arm. I bet the arm cracked at the hole where the pin goes through. Not much metal there. Mine cracked at that spot. Model A suppliers sell a replacement arm, but it doesn't look like an original and it's kind of crude. Better off with an original.
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I believe Snyder's offers three actually. The "crude" version, a new forged unit and the modern and imo Bullitt proof version.
 
erdaviesjr said:
My clutch quit working on my 31 pickup while driving recently (stays in gear even with clutch depressed) and I managed to limp back home. I found that I have a broken clutch arm with a crack along the shaft. I pulled the transmission and rebuilt it last April, and I wonder if I damaged that arm in the process?? Anyway, I'm hoping that I don't have to pull the transmission again to replace this arm? Is this an easy fix?
Click to expand...

Is this the bad dog that is giving you heartburn? Yes, after 90 years they like to break. As others have noted, easy fix. All of the vendors carry the parts you need. I don't think I would go with an original in this case as I have seen many originals crack. See picture of mine below.

The "crude" version is a little longer so the clutch is easier to push if you have leg issues.

47081886014_266cdc6b8b.jpg
 
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Common problem. Just replace it and drive on. Many other things will probably break before you have to replace it again.
 
A broken clutch release arm is common. They break at the pin hole, especially the ones that have been modified according to the Ford service bulletin. The after market ones the suppliers sell is bullet proof and is also slightly longer for added leverage. I recommend them, I install them on bell housings I rebuild.

See the attached article.

Tom Endy
 

Attachments

When you put on the beefed up arm, be sure you get full range and you can connect the linkage without interference. We had to grind a bit to get things to fit. Good luck. Should not be a hard job.
 
Will N said:
The arm is held on by a pin. Should be easy to drive the pin out and take off the arm. I bet the arm cracked at the hole where the pin goes through. Not much metal there. Mine cracked at that spot. Model A suppliers sell a replacement arm, but it doesn't look like an original and it's kind of crude. Better off with an original.
Click to expand...

Not sure I would agree with you. The replacement type below is very nice and difficult for most to distinguish from an original.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/...ELEASE-SHAFT-ARM?fromCategory=SearchByKeyword
 
Thanks everyone for the posts! This really was an easy fix! I bought the replacement from Snyder’s for ab $38 and it took 15 mins to replace and adjust the clutch. Back on the road again!
 
PalAl said:
Here is my story...... go to #4

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280529
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Yikes! Thanks for sharing. Fortunately, my old pin came out pretty easily. I punched it out from the bottom with a good punch and hammer. I could not get the replacement pins to go more than halfway in without excessive pounding with a hammer, so I quit trying and reused the old pin which still has a good, snug fit. And, I fortunately did not damage the bell housing or the throwout bearing inside.
 
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