Broken bolts

M

Mike Mayer

Senior Member
I just started taking an 8ba apart. This block only has the Crank pistons and the valve train. As I started working on it I found two broken head bolts and six broken ex. manifold bolts. Please advise
 
Do you have a welder? If so, there are many threads about this. If you don't Seth has the right idea. I would strongly suggest not using EZ-outs, etc.
 
Mike Mayer said:
I just started taking an 8ba apart. This block only has the Crank pistons and the valve train. As I started working on it I found two broken head bolts and six broken ex. manifold bolts. Please advise
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My advice is to include your general location in your profile in case someone has a shop that is good at removing broken bolts. Also Seth's idea is excellent. If your machine shop doesn't want to do it ask them for a recommendation.

Charlie Stephens
 
I posted this over on the HAMB.

The method I have used is to weld a washer over the bolt and then a nut on top. It usually takes two trys ea for me. It may be the heat treat of the bolt. It has always worked.Do not get in a hurry. Gentle back and forth is the way to go.
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I saw something on wax to loosen rusted bolts and desided to try it. I had a column drop and the pinch bolt was so rusted you could not see the threads where they were exposed. I heated the area a couple of time and just for curiosity, melted some wax everywhere it could get to the bolt. It sat overnight. The next morning I built up the head if the bolt and welded a washer and nut to it. I put Vice Grips on the nut and was prepared for a lot of heating and wiggling. The vice grips swung around. The bolt was not even finger tight. Completely loose. The threads in the drop and the bolt are fine. I am amazed.
 
Thank you all I will try some of these Ideas and if all else fails I will go to the machine shop. Again I Thank You Semper Fi
 
Be warned about "some" machine shops removing the broken bolts. I asked the machine shop to remove two for me because they were doing the machine work anyway. Instead of removing the broken ends they drilled them out and used helicoils to replace the threads. That caused me lots of grief. If you use a shop, be specific about what you expect.
 
40cpe said:
Be warned about "some" machine shops removing the broken bolts. I asked the machine shop to remove two for me because they were doing the machine work anyway. Instead of removing the broken ends they drilled them out and used helicoils to replace the threads. That caused me lots of grief. If you use a shop, be specific about what you expect.
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What was the grief with the heli coils?

R
 
Takes more time to remove it then install a helicoil usually so when they try and save you some money...a helicoil or thread insert should work fine if done right.
 
flatheadmurre said:
Takes more time to remove it then install a helicoil usually so when they try and save you some money...a helicoil or thread insert should work fine if done right.
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Yup x 2 1000's are used on aircraft engines as they do have a mil spec rating.
Both will work well when installed correctly.

R
 
I would have more confidence in Helicoils installed in holes with stripped threads. Drilling out a broken bolt and getting the hole centered and straight is harder. I would worry that the stud would be angled or off center.
 
Nah. Us farmers have more confidence in 3/8-16 stud. Drill the broken bolt with a 5/16" bit as straight/centered as you can. Then tap the hole for the aforementioned stud as straight as you can. Jack E/NJ
 
Mike Mayer said:
Thank you all I will try some of these Ideas and if all else fails I will go to the machine shop. Again I Thank You Semper Fi
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Mike I have used the welding washer and nut idea for years. One tip, after welding let it cool down some and put your favorite penetrating oil on them and the should come right out. I like a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and Acetone for penetrating oil.:)
 
No need for penetrating oil just quench the weld after with a candle and wait till the weld has cooled off that you can touch it.Depending on your skill set the first attempt may not get it,but don't be discouraged as it works very well.I have removed too many to count from 6/32" up to 3/4" with no problems,but I use a tig that gives much more heat control with a foot pedal as well letting you dwell on the weld for a long time to let the heat penetrate.

R
 
Welding a washer and then a nut +adding candle will do the trick , just like above mentioned. Done that hundreds of times one different situations.
 
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