Breaking rotors
- Thread starter NK Nance
- Start date
sturgis 39
BANNED
Ford should never changed the ignition system they had on thee Model "T". It seems they are back to a coil for each cylinder and a timer. The headlight switch was better on the "T" than on the "A" and v/8s.
BUBBAS IGNITION
Well-known member
Broken rotors then NO spark is a different animal for sure. But could be the problem all along with worn parts etc.
I would be more than happy to take a look if you want to just ship me the distributor. I can return the day i recieve it and add our results to this post . There some ground and hot wires under the plate that could be the issue , very easy to check when apart...
Nothing worse than a no start - no spark issues sitting in a driveway....
I would be more than happy to take a look if you want to just ship me the distributor. I can return the day i recieve it and add our results to this post . There some ground and hot wires under the plate that could be the issue , very easy to check when apart...
Nothing worse than a no start - no spark issues sitting in a driveway....
BUBBAS IGNITION
Well-known member
Got the distributor in a box today. Installed it in the machine , hooked up a ballast and a coil with a battery and turned the machine on. Distributor works like a champ !!! However i noticed a lot of spark jump across the contacts then all of a sudden " no spark" , checked condensor a little low on capacity at .20mfds , switched to test condensor and still no spark!! Now i am looking for a shorted wire under the plate etc. The all of a sudden good spark again. I can see where this would be a pain in the butt sitting in a driveway!!!!!
Ok , lets take er apart and look it over . All wires and cables loook and test really good but i cleaned them anyway , added some shrink tubing to further protect, glass beaded every part, polished the shaft and installed a new vacuum unit ( old one failed testing) . Contact points are from the very cheap varity , check with ohm meter and there it is the contacts only connect thru the connector and spring every now and then.
I will put up all the pics tomorrow of the entire adventure. A quality set of contacts is made out of good materials and uses a spring as well as a brass connector strap.
The cheaper set just used a poorly plated spring and this spring is the path for voltage to go thru.
Oh well glad to help , will run on tester some in the morning and up load the pictures of the entire tear down etc..............
Poor parts will kill ya every time........
Ok , lets take er apart and look it over . All wires and cables loook and test really good but i cleaned them anyway , added some shrink tubing to further protect, glass beaded every part, polished the shaft and installed a new vacuum unit ( old one failed testing) . Contact points are from the very cheap varity , check with ohm meter and there it is the contacts only connect thru the connector and spring every now and then.
I will put up all the pics tomorrow of the entire adventure. A quality set of contacts is made out of good materials and uses a spring as well as a brass connector strap.
The cheaper set just used a poorly plated spring and this spring is the path for voltage to go thru.
Oh well glad to help , will run on tester some in the morning and up load the pictures of the entire tear down etc..............
Poor parts will kill ya every time........
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Quick way to measure the rotor to cap contact clearance is to take a stiff piece of cardboard (like a business card) and hold it so that it goes from the cap contact to the center contact and mark where it meets the center contact. Now hold the cardboard so the the center contact mark is over the center of the rotor. The amount of card that project beyond the rotor end is the clearance.
Save the card board in a place where it will not get bent for the next time you buy a cap or rotor.
This will not work on the helmut type distributor.
Save the card board in a place where it will not get bent for the next time you buy a cap or rotor.
This will not work on the helmut type distributor.
BUBBAS IGNITION
Well-known member
ken ct
BANNED
You got it Bubba,some people insist on buying by price,cheaper the better,you buy cheap you get cheap,now he pays twice!!! ken ct.Got the distributor in a box today. Installed it in the machine , hooked up a ballast and a coil with a battery and turned the machine on. Distributor works like a champ !!! However i noticed a lot of spark jump across the contacts then all of a sudden " no spark" , checked condensor a little low on capacity at .20mfds , switched to test condensor and still no spark!! Now i am looking for a shorted wire under the plate etc. The all of a sudden good spark again. I can see where this would be a pain in the butt sitting in a driveway!!!!!
Ok , lets take er apart and look it over . All wires and cables loook and test really good but i cleaned them anyway , added some shrink tubing to fuether protest , glass beaded every part, polished the shaft and installed a new vacuum unit ( old one failed testing) . Cobtact points are from the very cheap varity , check with ohm meter and there it is the contacts only connect thru the connector and spring every now and then.
I will put up all the pics tomorrow of the entire adventure. A quality set of contacts is made out of good materials and uses a spring as well as a brass connector strap.
The cheaper set just used a poorly plated spring and this spring is the path for voltage to go thru.
Oh well glad to help , will run on tester some in the morning and up load the pictures of the entire tear down etc..............
Poor parts will kill ya every time........
ArcLighter
Member
No posts on this topic since 2012; here we go, again. '53 Vicky V-8 wasn't starting good when hot. I got a coil from Autozone and replaced the old one. Removed the distributor cap to change the coil, did not remove the rotor. Replaced the cap, and tried a start: clatter, clatter, click, click, and the rotor was toast. Got a new rotor from AZ, put it in very carefully, tried to start: clatter, click, click, same foul noise, but the rotor did not break. Removed the cap and see rub marks where the upper side of the rotor had been rubbing the cap. Rotor was seated all the way down, and the cap had been installed, and rechecked to be good. Problem is how was this thing not rubbing previously, or was it, slightly. I'll try grinding a little off the upper side of the distal brass piece on the rotor for clearance, and report back later.
Okay, I found a small clip lying in the side of the distributor, P/N 12213 from http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_engine-pics/Flathead_Distributor_1950to53.jpg. Just where and how is this clip installed??
Okay, I found a small clip lying in the side of the distributor, P/N 12213 from http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_engine-pics/Flathead_Distributor_1950to53.jpg. Just where and how is this clip installed??
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ArcLighter
Member
rich b,
Thanks, retaining clip problem solved.
Next, I look into the underside of the rotor and see a small protrusion from the base inside that would fit down onto the shaft; however, I'm wondering if that protrusion might be from the "mold" that formed the rotor, and it looks like if I were able to somehow grind that protrusion to the same depth as the rest of that opening inside if it would lower the rotor down on the shaft where it might oughta be, and then the rotor wouldn't contact the distributor cap above. My next plan will be to eliminate that protrusion. Any ideas??
Okay, I was able gouge off the protrusion mentioned above with my trusty pocket knife (took and hour), and I ground down the brass piece on the outside end of the rotor - should have been plenty of clearance to clear the underside of the dist. cap. Close by no cigar! The outside of the rotor is still contacting the underside of the dist. cap - wear marks are quite evident. I'm thinking of where to find another rotor that might not be so ill-fitting. And, yes the rotor has been completely seated down on the dist. shaft.
Thanks, retaining clip problem solved.
Next, I look into the underside of the rotor and see a small protrusion from the base inside that would fit down onto the shaft; however, I'm wondering if that protrusion might be from the "mold" that formed the rotor, and it looks like if I were able to somehow grind that protrusion to the same depth as the rest of that opening inside if it would lower the rotor down on the shaft where it might oughta be, and then the rotor wouldn't contact the distributor cap above. My next plan will be to eliminate that protrusion. Any ideas??
Okay, I was able gouge off the protrusion mentioned above with my trusty pocket knife (took and hour), and I ground down the brass piece on the outside end of the rotor - should have been plenty of clearance to clear the underside of the dist. cap. Close by no cigar! The outside of the rotor is still contacting the underside of the dist. cap - wear marks are quite evident. I'm thinking of where to find another rotor that might not be so ill-fitting. And, yes the rotor has been completely seated down on the dist. shaft.
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ArcLighter
Member
Rotor hitting the underside of dist. cap solved; installed new condensor, coil (Autozone, C809), and new set of plugs (NGK 3212); used inline spark plug tester, showed spark; plug grounded to head showed weak orange spark --- no start, even with a squirt of starting fluid. Bumfuzzled: weak spark, no start, wondering about new coil -- bad??
FlatheadTed
Well-known member
Ford bulletins requires that that rotor be (filed )matched to the caps ,this in the books for the diver Dan so what's good for the early dis is good for the late ,Ted
1942deluxe
Well-known member
The clip in the picture is Ford part # OBA -12213 and Ford called it a DIST. ROTOR RETAINER and they came 50 to a box. I have close to 90 of them if somebody needs one I think I can share!