Brass Replacement Rear Main

Thanks! I will search your site also...

OK so they go on the block side? Do you need two, one for the cap?

But the crank would need to come out....I hope to leave it in place this go-around...I guess it depends on how bad things are in there....
 
Re: Brass Replacement Rear Main THRUST

Wow! Those have sure gotten expensive. Looks like the price has doubled.



They are about half that price at Bert's.....
 
Thanks for that!

Now I "get it"!

So the crank needs to come out...but it looks like a good repair....I have quite a bit of crank end-play...

And you don't need two..and you don't need the original style main seal....
 
Here's a picture of one prepared to accept the brass thrust
 

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I have use them in a few engines. They work very well.
Not that any one cares, but they are Bronze not brass. Big difference.
 
George Miller said:
I have use them in a few engines. They work very well.
Not that any one cares, but they are Bronze not brass. Big difference.
Click to expand...

I did notice that Bratton's lists it as a brass part and Bert's lists it as bronze......since Bert's makes them then bronze it is!

And thanks Carl for that picture....

I'm a little hesitant to lift the crank out....partially because of what I might find....
 
Carl, great picture again....I've never really had an engine apart, I've seen plenty in the process of being rebuilt, but never done it ..except when I was about 18 and that doesn't really count....

I'm planning on setting the bearing clearance, installing a bronze thrust in the rear main and just generally cleaning up the pan and valve gallery...clutch and pressure plate too..

Any pictures you would like to post would be appreciated..

Did you remove the pistons to remove the crank, or just push them into the bores?
 
1955cj5 said:
Thanks for that!

Now I "get it"!

So the crank needs to come out...but it looks like a good repair....I have quite a bit of crank end-play...

And you don't need two..and you don't need the original style main seal....
Click to expand...

You will need to complete some careful measurements to determine the end result before you start. If your front thrust surface is worn, installing the bronze thrust/seal may not correct the issue.
Good Day!
 
You can leave the pistons in the bores, but be very careful to not nick the crank and main bearing surfaces. A "mechanic" I worked with at the car dealership didn't use stud caps on an engine he rebuilt, and he nicked a few of the bearing surfaces. After he clamped on all the rod caps he couldn't turn the engine over. Someone showed him what he had done wrong, so he grabbed a file and filed off the high spots until he could turn it over. I feel for the poor owner of that car. That worker was also fired a short time later for sleeping on the job. He used to get on a creeper and slide under a car then go to sleep for a couple hours.
 
Thanks Tom, after reading your post I checked Les's book and he recommends clear plastic tubing....

I already have a creeper :)

I measured the crank end-play with a dial indicator.....the engine is still in the truck so it's a little tight in there, but I get .0095" consistantly...the book indicates that .007 is the max...so I'm out but not too far out....
 
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