brakes
- Thread starter coolcoupe
- Start date
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
This is what the LONGER stud looks like - necessary ONLY WHEN USING THE BOLING BROS DRUMS, because the face of the "BB" drum which contacts the hub is THAT THICK. Stock drums are very thin at this area and DO NOT require the LONGER STUDS. You will need NEW studs however, because you had to cut the swage away on the original studs to separate the hub from the drum. You would do well to use the .600" studs installed as Boling Bros instructs, after reaming the holes in your original rear hubs.
Coop
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
At any GOOD auto parts store, you should find a "Dorman" brand bin with a huge assortment of wheel studs. When using the Boling Brothers' drums, the 'LONG' studs are a Dorman #610 - 234 wheel stud. The diameter of the KNURLED part is 0.621" in diameter. To leave enough 'meat' in the hole for those knurls to grab hold, you would ream the stud holes in the flange to 0.600" in diameter. That way, the knurled ridges will dig into the meat of the reamed holes. What you are needing (and I DO NOT have an answer for) are Some Dorman brand studs with the 0.621" knurls, but WITHOUT that smooth shoulder as seen between the knurls and the threaded portion. That smooth shoulder must be eliminated because using the STOCK drum which is quite thin at the area that touches the hub's flange, the lug nut would bottom out at the smooth shoulder before it snugs-up against the STOCK (thin) drum face.
I don't know what to tell you as far as a part number for the studs without that smooth shoulder. Go to a GOOD auto parts store that carries the Dorman studs. Get with the old, gripey looking guy behind the counter and ask him to look through his Dorman catalog to help you find the stud that DOES NOT have that smooth shoulder on it. That 610 - 234 stud has an overall length of 1-5/8", which is not all that important. The important thing is to find a stud WITHOUT that smooth shoulder between the knurls and the threads.
Click on the link BELOW for full description of the 610 - 234 stud.
https://www.koskowskiautoparts.com/product/dorman_610-234-610-234/
Coop
.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
.
"coolcoupe" ..... Just to be clear, and since your avatar indicates that you MAY be working with a '46 - '48 Ford, to do any of the drum/hub swapping that you are considering, you CANNOT use '42 - '48 brake drums/hubs. You must be using '40 or '41 hubs and drums to do any of the swaping you are considering. Those rear drums/hubs look like the ones shown BELOW with the hubs mounted INSIDE the drums.
Your FRONT drums must look like either of these shown BELOW, with the hub mounted INSIDE the drum.
Coop
ANY '42 - '48 front or rear drums with the flange exposed on the OUTSIDE of the drum like shown BELOW will NOT work for swapping drums/hub like you are contemplating.
"coolcoupe" ..... Just to be clear, and since your avatar indicates that you MAY be working with a '46 - '48 Ford, to do any of the drum/hub swapping that you are considering, you CANNOT use '42 - '48 brake drums/hubs. You must be using '40 or '41 hubs and drums to do any of the swaping you are considering. Those rear drums/hubs look like the ones shown BELOW with the hubs mounted INSIDE the drums.
Your FRONT drums must look like either of these shown BELOW, with the hub mounted INSIDE the drum.
Coop
ANY '42 - '48 front or rear drums with the flange exposed on the OUTSIDE of the drum like shown BELOW will NOT work for swapping drums/hub like you are contemplating.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Moe ..... I had never contemplated doing what you are suggesting. It MAY work, yet then again, it MAY NOT!
Here's my take on your current idea. I have no way of determining what the diameter of the flange is on either the early hubs ('40 & '41) or the later hubs ('42-'48). They MAY be the same diameter. But one other concern OF MINE would be the designed spacing DIFFERENCE of that flange (LATE flange as compared with an EARLY flange) as far as its distance from the backing plate (that means brake shoes) when everything is bolted-up as it should be. My concern is that by using the EARLY front drum on a LATER rear hub might just space the drum too far away from the backing plate, such that the brake shoe would be partially exposed to the world, and able to be seen between the drum and the backing plate. I guess that you could mock it up by swapping the EARLY drum onto the LATE hub and try fitting the assembly back on the axle. But MY guess is (What the hell do I know?) that it ain't gonna be the result that you would want.
My suggestion, for whatever that may be worth: Keep looking in the "Swap Meet" here on the F'Barn for either an EARLY drum/hub assembly, or a LATE hub/drum assembly that is still usable. Either EARLY or LATE rear drum/hub assembly is engineered to work properly when used as an original, complete ASSEMBLY. That is the best that I can do for ya, my friend.
It is possible that "rich b" may chime-in here with some of his wisdom on what I said above. Rich KNOWS this stuff backwards and forwards!
The Coopman
.
coolcoupe
Well-known member
I guess I'm back to square one !! I so glad (lucky) that you set me straight on what I can and can't do. You could have me a lot time and money and ended with nothing. Thank you and all the barners that set me straight !! I keep looking for rear drum/hub for a 47 car and get it back on the road again. Moe
glennpm
Well-known member
This is what the LONGER stud looks like - necessary ONLY WHEN USING THE BOLING BROS DRUMS, because the face of the "BB" drum which contacts the hub is THAT THICK. Stock drums are very thin at this area and DO NOT require the LONGER STUDS. You will need NEW studs however, because you had to cut the swage away on the original studs to separate the hub from the drum. You would do well to use the .600" studs installed as Boling Bros instructs, after reaming the holes in your original rear hubs.
Coop
Good to have your experience here, Coop!
Glenn
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Moe ..... You are correct! ANY stock 1940 - 1948 rear drum/hub assembly will bolt-on to your '47 rear axle and function properly, as I also noted in my post #28 above.
Coop
.
Delete
Do you just need one drum/hub to get you car back on the road? To confirm, it's a rear and it has at the hub on the outside of the drum. If so, let me look around and see what I have.
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
Dorman is the place to go to. I just got a set of studs that were 1/2 longer than the one s in aa 40 hub. I installed a rotor from the rear of a JeepGC on it and the 16X7 alum rims didn't fit. We did however have to ream the holes larger for the press fit. Now the fron of the roadster has a relitivey light disk brake set up ant a very low cost. Be interesting how well t holds up.
PS I have to find out how to post videros on the Barn. Have a bunch of the roadster build and more on the new engine. But at 90 my computer skills are gone all with ALL of my grand children. One is working for a company that is building a space House??
Gramps
PS I have to find out how to post videros on the Barn. Have a bunch of the roadster build and more on the new engine. But at 90 my computer skills are gone all with ALL of my grand children. One is working for a company that is building a space House??
Gramps
glennpm
Well-known member
Hi Ron,
You can provide a "link" to videos that you place on YouTube. I've posted the instructions below. I can do it for you if you private message me and we can take it from there.
"Create an account on YouTube
To sign in to YouTube, you'll need to create a Google Account if you don't already have one.
Computer Androidi Phone & iPad
Go to YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=new+account
- In the top right, click Sign in.
- Click Create Account.
- Choose For myself
Once you've signed in to YouTube with your Google Account, you can create a YouTube channel on your account. YouTube channels let you upload videos, leave comments, and create playlists."
Glenn
You can provide a "link" to videos that you place on YouTube. I've posted the instructions below. I can do it for you if you private message me and we can take it from there.
"Create an account on YouTube
To sign in to YouTube, you'll need to create a Google Account if you don't already have one.
Computer Androidi Phone & iPad
Go to YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=new+account
- In the top right, click Sign in.
- Click Create Account.
- Choose For myself
Once you've signed in to YouTube with your Google Account, you can create a YouTube channel on your account. YouTube channels let you upload videos, leave comments, and create playlists."
Glenn
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
Well Glen, that looks pretty complicated, but how would I send a video to you, if I can;t send one to my grandson??/ many yeays ago I had a program that converted my videos to computer language, and I just posted it in emails or the Barn. haven't got that anymore. Could probably get ti from one of them as well.
ThanksGramps
ThanksGramps
tubman
Well-known member
Ron,
What email package are you using? (Gmail, Hotmail, etc.) Unless it is really old, you should be able to send the .mp4 file (or whatever) to anyone by simply attaching it to an email to them. If you want to try it out, send it to me at "dennyodoms@gmail.com". I'll post it to my "YouTube" channel. If that works, I could probably set up a "YouTube" channel for you ("Ol' Ron's Videos") and post it there.
Granted, there are guys on here better suited to do this for you, but at least I'd give it a shot.
In my opinion, requiring the user to have "Google" account complicates things beyond my comfort level.