Brakes

Terry said:
The brake pedal and clutch pedal return spring are identical 5.4" long 91A-7523. Adjust the brake cams so the brakes have a heavy drag before bleeding. After bleeding then just readjust for a very slight drag.
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Terry has it! ADJUST THE BRAKE SHOES!

Coop

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I tried the brake adjustment again. I find that the anchor pin for the longer front shoe isn't hard to find the spot where it makes contact with the drum but the short shoe , I can't feel. I set both anchor pins set to the same angle. I'm also finding out I can only bleed 2 wheels at a time before the master lets air in. Now I'm out of fluid. I'll need to get more.
I also have a hard time recognizing where the master push rod is making contact. I don't want to crank the nut out too far. Still don't see any leaks at the fittings.
 
If The push rod for the M/C is to long it may not allow a full stroke of the piston and cover the replenish hole .
 
In simpler terms, there needs to be some free play between the pedal and the master to allow the piston in the master to return all the way back to the stop. Pay attention, and you can feel if its there.
 
I have found that with the fill cover off the master, if I push the brake pedal down slowly, I get air bubbles coming out the intake port into the reservoir. I'm thinking this is why the pedal is so low. Air in the system.
 
We just did a bleed on a 39 bare chassis ,first honed the M/C as the pedal had stuck down.getting some bubbles at the first 2" or so of pedal movement is not unusual , my helper bleed them on his own ,I suggested he first bleed them at the stop switch ,maybe this could help you , .crack the joint then pump ,that's the bolt that goes through the brass fitting
 
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