Brakes

Personally I run dot 5 and while you won’t have as firm of a pedal I prefer it as it won’t make the paint peel on painted areas. I also find Dot 5 better for cars that sit as it doesn’t absorb moisture like dot 3. Just my opinion which seems to differ from most.
 
35fordtn
Shoes are from wayyyy back when i bought the car some 50 years ago,they are new and i had to shave the top and bottom to try to adjust the brakes, still does not seem right.
 
There has been less then good "new" master cylinders. Not uncommon. No matter your spellin' or other stuffish. Walt's engine and work is a rock, not that would effect your brakes haha ....ever.


If you have fluid leaking from the front the of master. Start there maybe. Wheel cylinders next. Maybe we are down to old stock and hone.
 
Last edited:
Sure do miss not hearing from Walt, i wonder how he's doing, we are the same age with similar ailments.
 
Leo - From what I remember, meeting you at Bonneville umpteen years ago, your passion and determination should/will see you through this little brake situation!
 
Uncle max!
Great to hear from you.
What a memory, i thought for sure you would, not remember me from all the people you have to deal with.
I will not forget how you helped me with my carburators, and they are perfect only a little discoloration from sitting.
Your words of encouragement will help, but i will not get back to the problem until the weather is better around here, heat and humidity's got me out for the count.
 
Its a little work but try and isolate front and rear, right and left side one at a time and start with the master cyl. As you get a good pedal with the M/C isolated, then add one wheel at a time. You will have to come up with a way to plug the lines; have any machinist buddies?
 
hope said:
...but i will not get back to the problem until the weather is better around here, heat and humidity's got me out for the count.
Click to expand...

hope, you are an inspiration to my young *** (born 1960). My technique is to get to work as soon as there is enough light to get on it. Right now it's about 5:45 am. By about 11am it's nasty enough to put me into the house. Tomorrow it will be above 95 degrees in the afternoon. I'm lucky to have access to an air conditioned shop, lucky me! Anything in the driveway is torture for a major part of the day.
 
Please make sure your return spring is returning the pedal to the top of it's travel when bleeding. If it doesn't that makes it nearly impossible to bleed off air through the master cyl.

Al
 
Hi Hope ,(this may not be your problem but ) My suggestion to use a air gun comes from working on a car with the MC low in the floor much like 39 Ford ,I just could not get a pedal It felt like trapped air we had bench bleed it so I knew it worked ok ,in my absence the owner had the MC re kitted after replacing it we experienced the same problem so out of frustration put the 40 1lb air into it and bingo got a full pedal .You would think this would mix air with it but it doesn't.
 
O.K. Thanks.
Weather is still awful around here, so it will be sometime before i can convince this old body to cooperate.
 
FlatheadTed said:
Hi Hope ,(this may not be your problem but ) My suggestion to use a air gun comes from working on a car with the MC low in the floor much like 39 Ford ,I just could not get a pedal It felt like trapped air we had bench bleed it so I knew it worked ok ,in my absence the owner had the MC re kitted after replacing it we experienced the same problem so out of frustration put the 40 1lb air into it and bingo got a full pedal .You would think this would mix air with it but it doesn't.
Click to expand...


Could you elaborate a little more on:( put the 40 1lb air into it).


How to: put air into the master cyl? and how much pressure?
icon11.gif
 
Adjust the brake shoes with a drag first then bleed. When you rebuilt the 1940 Ford master cylinder the first item to insert is the rubber appearing washer then the check valve.

Appears like you know what your doing! Good Luck!
 
Loosen of the stop light switch at the MC, Set your air gauge at 40 then with a bunched up rag in the oil fill hole and the MC 3/4 full place the gun in the centre of the rag and give it a few bursts of air ,retighten the stop light switch, check the pedal if no or a low pedal go to the nearest /(left sitting in the car) wheel and loosen of the bleeder and repeat , , the air that's got in the system when you had the pipes of you need to chase that out at the shortest possible rout ,do all four wheels if you don't get a result .At the end you could revert back to normal bleeding. We bled ours at the joint and got a pedal straight of so that's all we did ,Ted
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top