brakes?

1

12cliff23

Member
afternoon all, what is the knowledge or opinion about using a method of pushing brake fluid from. the brake back to the MC instead of using a vacuum bleeder. since we have the MC under the floor
thanks Cliff
 
Cliff, I'm not sure I can understand why having the master cylinder under the floor is causing you a problem? Also, not sure what you are working on, so hard to know how you would add fluid through the bleeder fitting. Seems like you'd be "pushing on a rope" Just MHO!:confused::confused:
 
air goes to the high point in any fluid system, so that is where you want to remove it from, not from the low point, IE the MC
 
It's normally best to push the fluid through the system, from the master cylinder to the brakes, either by stroking the pedal or using a pressure bleeder, regardless of master location. One exception is the vac/fill procedure used by some OEs on the assembly line.
 
I was having trouble bleeding brakes on an old chevy truck one time. A mechanic friend had a gallon of brake fluid with a pump on it. He hooked the hose to the bleeder screw and pushed the fluid back to the mc. It was up on the firewall and I'm not sure why it did not just drain to wheel cylinder, neverthe less we did that and it worked.
 
I have used a pressure system before, but the last one I did I used a vacuum pump to suck the fluid from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinder. I was not really happy with the process, I seemed to be pumping away for ages. I realised I was trying too hard and was pulling air in past the wheel cylinder seals. I used a system of gently pulling with the vac tool and pressing the pedal and was able to achieve a decent solid brake pedal single handedly.

This was on a 41 pickup with all stock brakes.

Mart.
 
I have "Speed-Bleeders" on most of my vehicles (the rest will be getting them when their turn comes) and brake bleeding has gone from a problem to be avoided to routine maintenance. They allow easy one person bleeding of the brake systems. I also have an electronic device that will tell me the moisture content of fluid, which is a good indication of when the system needs to be flushed. So far, it looks to me like regular DOT3 and DOT4 fluid can go from between 10 to 15 years before it picks up enough moisture to require flushing. (This is given the usage and storage conditions that these cars receive.) For those of us who drive our vehicles, even on a semi-regular basis, "Speed-Bleeders" are the ticket. http://www.speedbleeder.com/.
 
I have used a vacuum bleeder and made more of a job of it than was necessary too. It seemed I pumped forever and got nowhere. I went at it a little less enthusiastically and it took half the time.........Mark
 
I use a Motive bleeder that I bought for a VW I had. For the under floor MC I use a flat plate and gasket with a hose fitting held on with a C clamp. It is really nice to use. Pump up 10 psi and walk around bleeding cylinders. I hook a clear plastic hose on the bleeder and stick it in a coffee can at each wheel.

Also shows any leaks.

John
 

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