Brakes
- Thread starter Dbbc
- Start date
DBBC,
Brakes are one of my specialties and have done many.
I would most definately convert to the Cast iron drums. The units from Randy Gross who is on the barn here or the other parts vendors if you so choose are all excellent.
The key as has been said a little is comphrehensive rebuilding of all of the components. The linings may have meat on them and look good but how's their contact to the drum ( the new ones will be different than your old drums), and all of the other mechanical components. Tracks, bushings, pins, levers, etc all need to be "Restored" to as new. The repro sedge anchors as well on the top end of the shoes are excellent.
A comphrensive brake job properly done and adjusted/dialed in with break in will screech you to a stop. I'll put them up against hydraulics any day on an "A".
Randy (Mels)Gross's are your msot economical method. The key is finding someone to install them properly in your area. It may be sending yours to him may be best.
Larry Shepard
Brakes are one of my specialties and have done many.
I would most definately convert to the Cast iron drums. The units from Randy Gross who is on the barn here or the other parts vendors if you so choose are all excellent.
The key as has been said a little is comphrehensive rebuilding of all of the components. The linings may have meat on them and look good but how's their contact to the drum ( the new ones will be different than your old drums), and all of the other mechanical components. Tracks, bushings, pins, levers, etc all need to be "Restored" to as new. The repro sedge anchors as well on the top end of the shoes are excellent.
A comphrensive brake job properly done and adjusted/dialed in with break in will screech you to a stop. I'll put them up against hydraulics any day on an "A".
Randy (Mels)Gross's are your msot economical method. The key is finding someone to install them properly in your area. It may be sending yours to him may be best.
Larry Shepard
Dbbc
Senior Member
Aloha,
Thanks for all your comments, did not get a chance to work on it this weekend, however I have a look soon.
How thick should be the lining before having to change it. Also how difficult is it to rivet new lining on the shoes? Is the riveting tool sold by Snyder works well?
Lastly is anyone know how heavy is a cast iron hub?
mahalo
Thanks for all your comments, did not get a chance to work on it this weekend, however I have a look soon.
How thick should be the lining before having to change it. Also how difficult is it to rivet new lining on the shoes? Is the riveting tool sold by Snyder works well?
Lastly is anyone know how heavy is a cast iron hub?
mahalo
CarlG
Well-known member
I plan on sending mine to Randy as one of my "winter jobs"
Robert/Texas
Well-known member
I had my woven linings bonded on at a large truck repair shop around 20 years ago. If needed to do it again I would do the same.
barkleydave
Well-known member
Just a reminder.... just changing to Cast Drums is only the beginning to having reliable brakes. Mine are done now we did the fronts last spring and the rear this spring. Both needed a COMPLETE rebuild from the backing plates out. Also you must make sure your rods are straight and pins fit properly. A little slack and you loose a lot of braking. Once everything is back to orig. specs mechanical brakes work perfectly on our A's. Plan on spending at least $1,500 bucks to get them right if the work has not be performed since the car was built.
Most I have seen for sale that look great folks have bypassed doing them correctly and just added shoes.
Most I have seen for sale that look great folks have bypassed doing them correctly and just added shoes.
Good Morning Dbbc;
I have done a few brake jobs for people in Hawaii. Based on this, I don't think that there is anybody or any place there that can do the job correctly. I sell new cast iron brake drums for less then anybody else and can do all of the work and di it properly. I also sell relined brake shoes that are bonded (not riveted) with modern lining and chamfered on the leading and trailing edges to help reduce chatter and squealing. I also sell relined emergency brake bands that are bonded too. They do require woven lining as they flex. Maybe you should give us a call to discuss your needs and whether it makes sense to have us do your work. Thanks Randy Gross 717-292-8660 melmodela@aol.com
I have done a few brake jobs for people in Hawaii. Based on this, I don't think that there is anybody or any place there that can do the job correctly. I sell new cast iron brake drums for less then anybody else and can do all of the work and di it properly. I also sell relined brake shoes that are bonded (not riveted) with modern lining and chamfered on the leading and trailing edges to help reduce chatter and squealing. I also sell relined emergency brake bands that are bonded too. They do require woven lining as they flex. Maybe you should give us a call to discuss your needs and whether it makes sense to have us do your work. Thanks Randy Gross 717-292-8660 melmodela@aol.com
Dbbc
Senior Member
Aloha,
After all, I was able to work on the car this past Sunday. With Les Andrews book I adjusted the brake rods and the brake levers position. I took the drums out of the front wheel, the lining (woven I believe) were glazed, so I took a little sand paper to it!!!. The thickness of the lining were almost .2 inch. So I think they are ok, however the front brake on the passenger side had a lot of grease inside and the lining were black from the grease. Anyway cleaned up everything and put everything back together fine. However when came the time to adjust the brakes could not make it work properly. I made a wooden stick with the stair case at one end. Follow the steps in the book but for some reason when I try to adjust the brakes with the adjustment wedge it did not make sense. I would move the adjustment one way or the other (clockwise or counter clockwise) it would either get the brakes loose or tight, or it seems that the brakes would get tight, one more click and it would be loose again?????
Anyway I left at that and will get back to it. Anyone with a suggestion?
Havenʻt looked at the back brakes as of yet.
mahalo
After all, I was able to work on the car this past Sunday. With Les Andrews book I adjusted the brake rods and the brake levers position. I took the drums out of the front wheel, the lining (woven I believe) were glazed, so I took a little sand paper to it!!!. The thickness of the lining were almost .2 inch. So I think they are ok, however the front brake on the passenger side had a lot of grease inside and the lining were black from the grease. Anyway cleaned up everything and put everything back together fine. However when came the time to adjust the brakes could not make it work properly. I made a wooden stick with the stair case at one end. Follow the steps in the book but for some reason when I try to adjust the brakes with the adjustment wedge it did not make sense. I would move the adjustment one way or the other (clockwise or counter clockwise) it would either get the brakes loose or tight, or it seems that the brakes would get tight, one more click and it would be loose again?????
Anyway I left at that and will get back to it. Anyone with a suggestion?
Havenʻt looked at the back brakes as of yet.
mahalo
