Brakes

RCM

RCM

Senior Member
Last Saturday I was going for a drive and noticed instantly as I pressed the brake pedal that it traveled more than usual. Pressed it again a couple of times and it got firmer. After a 5 min warmup I took her out of the driveway and noticed again that I had a brake problem. Parked it.
I notice no leaks and the fluid is now brown rusty whereas before it was clearer. Its level remains correct.
I had this one coming and knew that I was playing with fire driving her without revising the brakes. Glad it happened at home.
Since there are no noticable leaks, I suspect the master cilinder.
What do you think? Would this one be appropriate?: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-Mast...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c9228e1f5&vxp=mtr
I already have a set of Raybestos wheel cilinders and instead of chasing a specific problem, I guess I should overhaul the hole system.
Thoughts?
Regards.
 
If it were mine I would replace the m/cyl's and b/cyl's blow out all lines and then put in silicone fluid, DOT 5. Did this on my 56 F100 in 1981 and have never touched the brake system since other then to replace the shoes. This has been beaten around on this site for some time and some folks don't like silicone but it works for me. I also have a 55 willys with silicone in it with no issues.
 
Thanks wellcraft. I'm gonna replace rubber lines, master and wheel cylinders since theyr long due, still fomoco stuff thats now starting to fail. My doubt is between the OE mc on the link (or similar) and other options. Drum/drum dual? Booster? What years and what options?
Thanks
 
Time then to absolutely replace the brake line from the rear of frame to the brass junction block on the rear axle housing also. These can look new on the outside and be closed up on the inside. Can cause rear brakes to lock or drag. ask me how I know!
 
RCM, please carefully inspect ALL brake lines for rust and make sure there is not a small pinhole somewhere.
I also converted to silicon fluid a couple decades ago pretty much trouble-free and still using all same components as originally installed at that time. However, I installed all NEW brake lines because I was not sure how I could get ALL of the old hydraulic fluid out of the lines. DO NOT MIX SILICONE WITH HYDRAULIC FLUID.
 
I'll go with Y's and Dave. I've done many 50's cars, and all the brake lines went from the inside out. I know parts are a problem where you are, but a brake failure is worse. I've been lucky. Mine failed at low speed in a quiet residential area, in my driveway, and in a parking lot. All different cars. I'm not planning on dodging any more bullets.
 
Thank you all for the input guys.
I'll look into the video Jeff.
I've been playing with fire alright, and I'm feeling lucky that the problem started with the car at home and that I didnt floor the pedal while moving in traffic.
I appreciate your effort trying to help out. Parts where I live are in fact a problem, but I've been managing to get stuff so far, sometimes with a "little help from my friends" (you guys).

I already have the four new wheel cylinders. I'm ordering the master cylinder and the flex hoses that run from the metal tubes to the wheel cylinders.
Should I go with the hole metal tubing also? How hard is that flaring and tube shaping task?
Are there other advantages on the mustang mc vs. the oe mc, aside the dual fluid cup? This means that if I get a leak on the rear system, the front one doesnt get drained right?
Also on the silicone fluid, why shouldnt I stick with brake fluid? Moisture levels?

Regards.
 
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"How hard is that flaring and tube shaping task?"

Consider using Cunifer brake lines.
Read up on it here.
http://store.fedhillusa.com/

They are OEM on hi-dollar - is it hi-euro there? - European cars.
It should be available locally or from the EU as it is manufactured there.
It is easier to work with and won't rust out like steel.
 
Jeff, Jim, guys, cant thank you enough for the assistance. This sure helps and will help anyone who types "brakes" at the search field.
I've contacted the dealer Jeff posted. They have a good ebay rating and seem to be able to suply the lines, hoses and the mc overseas. This way I only pay once and save on shipment.
I'll let you guys know how this comes out and will post any (certain) doubts.
Regards.
 
Not a bad deal for $39. I think I spent about $60 alone at NAPA for the lengths I needed, plus I had to do all the flaring myself. But it came out great. My best bending jig was the handle of my floor jack.
 
...and the rear right wc is...guilty!
 

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RCM said:
:)
I hope I dont kink mine. I can just follow the old bends approximately right? where should I put the loops? Right after mc?
Thanks
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In theory, if your line kit is accurate, any alternate routing should be minimal. Hard to say where you should do any looping, it may not be necessary.

However you can make a bend radius bigger or smaller to get a line to fit. I've done more than a few and it's something you make up as you go along. The most important thing is the lines should not rub against anything or they wind up with a hole in them.
 
Thanks dobie. The bike is currently leaning against my shop's wall, been parked for a while now. I upgraded that 125cc engine to a 350cc. More torque but same ~70km top speed. But its dangerous and unsafe. Everything wobbles, any bump /hole in the road must be avoided, the only brake (rear) works poorly. But its fun. I built it for the fun of it anyway.
Well, mc has been shiped. I'll keep you guys updated.
@Barry, thanks for the e-mail support.
Regards
 

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OK so finally I'll have some free time tomorrow.
As to the procedure I have doubts. Its not bleeding brakes (done that before), but fisically replacing parts.
1st the mc or the wcs? Start at the longest line (rear right pass) or doesnt matter? One at a time or doesnt matter?
Thanks
 
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