Brake Woe's

Maclab58

Maclab58

Well-known member
After living with crappy brakes on my 68 – C , I decided today to pull the wheels and drums and see what was going on. All I can say is ignorance was bliss. What shoes are worn to the rivets, the drums are scored to put it mildly and the roller tracks are worn. Time to step up to cast iron drums! Any opinions on Mel Gross drums? This car is a keeper so I want good stuff! Chime in and share your experiences please!
 

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I have installed (I think) 8 sets of Mel Gross drums on mine and customers cars within the last 4 years. Never had a problem with Mel, his son Randy, or any of his products. He is a great guy to work with.

I do my own stud removal and pressing the new studs in the Mel Gross drums.
 
Talked to Randy tonite. Really nice guy and very reasonable prices. Plan on shipping my hubs and shoes to him Tuesday. Thanks for the input guys!
 
I highly recommend that you buy and install Flathead Ted's brake kit. His kit lets the brake shoes self-center in the drums for a fantastic improvement in braking. With Ted's kit, you can set the brake rods at the factory lengths shown in the service bulletins.

Besides the wheel brakes, you should restore all of the brake operating shafts to remove play.
 
I put teds floaters on my other car when I rebuilt the brake system.....
My newer car Lucy I rebuilt back stock and it stops better.... Will probably be removing the floaters on the other car soon..
 
Check the fit of the holes with a new pin. If they are real sloppy might be time for better shoes. These holes do get worn out and loose an amount of braking action to slop.
 
Mitch//pa said:
I put teds floaters on my other car when I rebuilt the brake system.....
My newer car Lucy I rebuilt back stock and it stops better.... Will probably be removing the floaters on the other car soon..
Click to expand...

I too am not super happy with Ted's floaters. One problem I see is that by leaving off the long (top) spring as per the instructions, the leading shoe tends to bind. I am going to put the long springs back on sometime soon and give it another try.

On a similar note: is there a reliable cure for worn roller pin holes in the shoes?

Finally, has anyone fitted 'pins' as used in newer drum brakes, to hold the shoes steady?
 
I had Randy swedge his drums on my hubs, and bought his brake shoes for my rpu brakes never worked better for me, great guy and great service
 
Brake shops used to have oversize pins and rollers for worn model A brakes, keep a watch on the internet if you must find some.
 
Guess this is why both chocolate and vanilla are popular: i have ted's floaters on my '31 Slantwindow and plan to install them on my '29 CCPU - I think they are fabulous and would NOT do without them......and I prefer chocolate.
 
Randy Gross is doing a great job with the brake drums we've used him on several cars always good products.
 
The stock Model A brakes work really well when everything is right. You want to achieve snug fitting pins and bushing everywhere. Any slop at all has a significant effect on how the car will stop. Very important that the cross shaft bushings are tight. Often overlooked, slop in those bushings has a drastic effect on the brakes.
Glenn
 
I spoke with Randy yesterday, brake drums and pads and brake shoe shop yesterday he was planning on starting on everything today to have everything shipped back to me next week. I ordered my parts from Piranios to take care of everything else this week and they arrived Thursday. I had my backing plates and emergency brake carrier Hot tanked at a radiator shop doesn't mind doing things like that for me. Hope to yep everything else and painted so maybe I can start reassembling. I will post pictures as progress comes along I'm excited to see Randy's work. from everything I've been told I will not be disappointed!
 
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