Brake troubles

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nb141fd

Senior Member
Installed the speedway Bendix Style Brakes for 1937-48 Ford Spindles recently and am having grinding problems. This is a new build and all front end components are brand new. Whenever I apply anything greater than mild braking I get a grinding sound from the driver's side brakes. When I removed the hub I could see that the bottom of the forward shoe showed signs of scraped metal.
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The drum showed a gouge around the entire drum where the shoe had made contact. Shown just above face of drum.
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I've included a pic of the brake setup incase someone can spot anything out of normal. The longer shoe is on the rear of the backing plate.
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The shoes are 2" wide and the drums are 12"x2". My question is can I sand off some of the shoe to get some clearance or is this just a band-aid covering a bigger problem? Also, would getting 1 3/4" wide shoes help?
TIA, Tony
 
I am thinking about drum location and bearings on spindle. At one time there were bearings that were relieved with an inside radius for Ford spindles. Newc
 
measure the brake shoes--should be same width as original 1 3/4? I had a problem with some they sent me and they measured 2"--called told them what happened and they sent me new correct shoes
 
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I have attempted to warn 'Barners on numerous occasions NOT to use the Bendix brakes that Speedy Bill sells. There have been numerous complaints about these brake drums being out of round, out of balance, and not being properly machined. The Speedy drums are manufactured (someplace else) to LOOK like the quality "Boling Brothers" drums, which normally perform flawlessly. "Krylon32" here on Ford Barn is a Boling Brothers dealer and gives 'Barn members a 10% discount on "BB" brakes ..... the REAL deal!

Coop

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What Coopman says is true. I had the same issues with Speedway drums. Not only were they not machined concentric, they also ran out, meaning they wobbled side to side while turning. I returned them, Speedway was good about that, and bought Boling Bros. drums. Excellent quality.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I talked to Speedway and they said they hadn't encountered my problem before. They advised shaving the outside edge a little to gain some relief.
 
nb141fd said:
Thanks for the input guys. I talked to Speedway and they said they hadn't encountered my problem before. They advised shaving the outside edge a little to gain some relief.
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WOW! They told you to shave it, huh? Now, you have "modified" it and they likely won't allow you to return. I'd send "Krylon32" (Gary Mussman) a PM directly using the link BELOW to have him procure and drop-ship some real drums from Boling Brothers to you. There is absolutely no excuse for folks having to modify brake drums to POSSIBLY make them usable!


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/private.php?do=newpm&u=1914


Coop

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I bought the entire complete Boling Bros. front and rear brake kits with the 2 in. wide shoes from, Gary in 1999 .Still working fine. If you also bought new Bolling Bros. backing plates, is there a possibility that you didn't grind enough metal from the top of the front spindle so that the Boling Bros. backing plate fits exactly flat and parallel to the spindle as it should and not touching the wheel cylinder? If its canted, drum will rub. Car is a 40 Ford.
 

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Are your backing plates greased on the 4 or 6 pads? If they are not greased the shoes may not retract properly. JPL
I keep trying to post another note, but I get kicked out a d treated like a non-member 3 times. Anyway, what I try to say is, swap the shoes to the other side and see if the problem stays with the shoes or the drum, or, swap the drums. But I think swapping shoes is better because then you Will reseat all the parts, and if anything is out of place now you will correct it. Good luck solving and fixing this problem. JPL
 
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19Fordy said:
I bought the entire complete Boling Bros. front and rear brake kits with the 2 in. wide shoes from, Gary in 1999 .Still working fine. If you also bought new Bolling Bros. backing plates, is there a possibility that you didn't grind enough metal from the top of the front spindle so that the Boling Bros. backing plate fits exactly flat and parallel to the spindle as it should and not touching the wheel cylinder? If its canted, drum will rub. Car is a 40 Ford.
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nb141fd: I just recalled that when I installed the Bolling Bros. 2 in. wide brake shoes I had to use the longer pairs of spring hold down pins
that literally "hold down" each brake shoe against the backing plate.
Did you do that?
 
nb141fd said:
Thanks for the input guys. I talked to Speedway and they said they hadn't encountered my problem before. They advised shaving the outside edge a little to gain some relief.
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I would have advised them to sell a product that works propery in the first place and retrun your purchase.

I've said it many times, a lot of what Speedway sells is Chinese garbage.
 
Seth Swoboda said:
I would have advised them to sell a product that works propery in the first place and retrun your purchase.

I've said it many times, a lot of what Speedway sells is Chinese garbage.
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May I add "overpriced Chinese garbage".

I have been involved in a couple of threads on the H.A.M.B. in the last week regarding Speedway items. One was a set of "Spider Trim Rings" (they go over the hub cap "bumps" on later model wheels). Speedway wanted $339 for a set of four while several posters found other sources for as low as $75. Second was the special connector (with diode) sometimes required when installing an alternator on an old car. This one wasn't as outrageous. Speedway wants $36.99 while it is available on Amazon for $24.95. Still 50% more.
 
Ok, we know a lot of parts offered out there are substandard. Back to the problem . I once bought a new set of drums and as soon as I put them on I had the same problem. After removing them We found them to have been cut/turned to fast and to deep acting like the threads on a screw . One side pushed the shoe against the backing plate the other the drum which made a grinding sound. You may have the same thing going on. Tim
 
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