Brake Time

G

Gino

Senior Member
Hi, looks like I gotta tackle the rear brakes. I removed the hubs and I noticed a little play in the axle, up and down as well as front to rear. Not much really but is this normal like me? Thanks
 
There is play in the axel if the hub is removed. The play schould be checked before the hub is removed. Shake the tire for loosnes in the bearing, not the axel.
 
Hi, yes, it was the movement of the tire and rim that I noticed when I decided to adjust the brakes. Would it be wise to replace the bearing? Also is there a seal that stops rear end gear oil from leaking into the hub? Thanks
 
Just as important is to be sure that your axle housing and hub are not worn, if they are then you will never get rid of that play. Les Andrew’s book gives the tolerances for axle housing OD and hub ID. If the axle housing is worn you need to turn it down and sleeve it, that housing can be asymmetrically worn and indicating it properly in a lathe is not quite straightforward (Brent in TN gave a procedure in a post here several months ago, I can’t seem to find it though). Similarly, if the hub is excessively worn then it needs to be sleeved (I’ve seen hubs worn through the surface treatment), if the hub is worn there are repair kits that you can get from the vendors (https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=976171&cat=41720) that have a sleeve and a smaller corresponding bearing.
 
Last edited:
JayJay said:
... Similarly, if the hub is excessively worn then it needs to be sleeved (I’ve seen hubs worn through the surface treatment), if the hub is worn there are repair kits that you can get from the vendors (https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=976171&cat=41720) that have a sleeve and a smaller corresponding bearing.
Click to expand...

That uses the smaller V8 bearing and I haven't heard that they are much good either??
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=298570&highlight=rear*wheel*bearings
 
Here is how the rear axle is supported:
 

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    Rear Axle – Function of Drum Taper 188kb.jpg
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I do a conversion for the rear bearings using 3 modern NU1010 roller bearings on each side. It has proved to be bullet proof but you guys are restricted to expensive brands of bearings. Mine cost only a few dollars each and are of good quality.
There is a bit of machining involved but once that is done, you'll never need to touch it again. Mine has done a 7,000 mile trip under HEAVY loads towing a camper.
 
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