Brake switch driving me crazy blowing fuses

Gushty

Junior Member
Finally figured out it was my repro brake switch that was blowing the fuse. Cut the welds so I could look inside. Didn’t really see any thing obvious . The copper contacts seem a little close to the housing but not touching. Tapped the metal housing out a little just to have that little extra space. Tested it, rewelded it .Drove around all over , All good. Back on the trailer, got home, drove it off the trailer ….and here we go again . Blew the fuse. Took the wires off the switch, new fuse and fires right up. Does anyone have a USA made one they could sell me? Or an original . !930. All the places that sell the nice ones are temporary out of stock . Don’t want to buy a $10 pill of junk. Or maybe I’m just missing something, not sure Any help is appreciated !
 
Bypass the brake switch to energize the brake light to help rule out that it isn't in the wiring to the brake light.
 
I am with Bruce and Crosscut with this one. It may be an intermittent short which are tough to trace down.

Of course it could also be the switch. On the bench hook up a test light or multimeter on the ohm setting and see if you can get it to short out by hitting it with the handle side of a screwdriver
 
Use the more expensive A&L switch if you aren't already. The regular imported switches are less than ideal.
 
I use a 30 amp snap-in circuit breaker when troubleshooting wiring problems. It can save you a lot of blown fuses. There are various brands available but I use the Eaton Bussmann (CBF-30) 30 amp snap-in circuit breaker. It snaps in to replace the glass fuse in your holder and resets itself when tripped.
 
30 amp seems quite high for testing purposes, I would think 15 amp would be plenty.
 

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