Brake Stuff

I have been fighting with Flathead Teds Brake stuff for a long time to get it to work correctly. I am going to reinstall the original set-up with new parts. My question is can you use his square pins with the rest of the parts being the original type. Thanks, Steve
 
There's a video now on epay now on how to install ted's floaters, might be something to look into (model a ford, parts&accessories).Hope this helps.
Paul in CT
 
I also struggled for a while with them but now have them figured out. They are a bit finicky and you really have to make sure your shoes are well fit to the drums (just like with the stock set-up). Get his new instructions and make sure you follow them (I didn't at first and wasted a lot of time). Secondly Ted is great about helping by email - just contact him. Finally Tom Endy has some great articles at http://www.ocmafc.org/ under tech articles. I'm not sure sure Ted's Floaters give you any improvement in actual braking performance, however, the pedal effort to stop is significantly less and the pedal feels more like power brakes. It was a worthwhile addition for me.
 
I have been fighting with Flathead Teds Brake stuff for a long time to get it to work correctly. I am going to reinstall the original set-up with new parts. My question is can you use his square pins with the rest of the parts being the original type. Thanks, Steve


I think you could. You will need a centering tool to determine which side of the pin to rest against the tracks.

I've installed several sets of them. If your shoes are not arced properly or are bent or if the drums are warped, you can have a heck of a time. If everything is true and well fit, they work very well.
 
Let me add some more to my original post. My latest "Brain Fart" is to keep most of Teds set up, but reinstall the the spring he ask you to leave off and reinstall the old adjuster. What do you think. I've had it with this stuff.Steve
 
Some guys leave in the top spring. The pedal resistance goes back to about normal, but the shoes still self center. The most common problem is that the shoes self activate more easily without the spring. This happens either from high spots on the drum , mis aligned shoes, shoes adjusted too tight, shoe rollers not fully seating in the cradle due to interference from the cotter pin, shoes not centered, shoes not arced, adjuster arms hanging up in the bores, or some other reason a lead shoe is catching the drum. Putting the top spring in could help prevent that by inhibiting the servo activating effect. If you're using the square pins, burrs on the tracks can catch and rotate them too and hold the shoe too close to the drum..

If your adjuster arms are equal length , which is very important in either the stock Ford or Ted's system, I can't see that leaving the floating adjuster in would do anything but improve it. If they are unequal, one shoe will activate the system because its too close to the drum, or in the case of the stock system you will only have one shoe doing the work.

its usual to have to adjust the brakes looser on Ted's system until everything has seated. If they are adjusted as tight as you would on a stock system, they will self activate.
 
I also struggled for a while with them but now have them figured out. They are a bit finicky and you really have to make sure your shoes are well fit to the drums (just like with the stock set-up). Get his new instructions and make sure you follow them (I didn't at first and wasted a lot of time). Secondly Ted is great about helping by email - just contact him. Finally Tom Endy has some great articles at http://www.ocmafc.org/ under tech articles. I'm not sure sure Ted's Floaters give you any improvement in actual braking performance, however, the pedal effort to stop is significantly less and the pedal feels more like power brakes. It was a worthwhile addition for me.

Ironically, you can do the same thing with a stock set of brakes if you remove one of the springs on each wheel, ...which is the same thing the FH Ted kit suggests you do. Isn't it plausible that if folks spent the same amount of time rebuilding the original-style brakes as they do with trying to get the FH set-up to work that they would be just as happy?
 
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Brent - I'm curious about your comment. I thought the key difference with the Flathead setup versus stock is the shoes are allowed to float. This is because the brake adjusting wedges (cones) are replaced with a wedge that can float on the adjuster end. On the fronts the operating wedge is allowed to move and on the rear - as with the stock setup - the rear cam allows the shoes to float. I don't understand how you could get the same self-energizing/self-centering effect in the stock system?
 
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