Brake sticking

V

vern hodgson

Well-known member
Servic brake pedal does not return from floor without assistance from my toe. Is there a return spring I am missing or what!!
 
Are all the return springs that are supposed to be on your car working properly? If not fix those and see how things are.
 
Is there a sound when you pull it back that suggests that the pedal is sticking or caught on something?


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Check that the brake rod anti rattlers are pushing the knobs on the rods. If so, then you can get a spring from the vendors as mentioned, that pulls the pedal up.
 
vern hodgson said:
Have not noticed any sound.
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I asked because a similar problem happened to me and was caused by the rod from the brake pedal to the cross shaft passing by the brake light switch and rubbing against the side of it. It turned out that I had the incorrect rod without the large flat disk end. After replacement the problem vanished.


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You should not need that mickey mouse spring to return the pedal - if you feel you need that your brake system seeds an overhaul as between the anti rattlers that do just that it should be the shoe springs doing most of the work. Yours are probably dry and or rusted up. Or the arms are dry/starting to sieze up, broken springs, stretched springs, or like others have said something physically blocking rods/levers.

Time to repair the problem properly!
 
Agree with SeaSlugs and Franklin.. up shouldn't' need a helper spring at the pedal and normal wheel brake springs are key. Snyders Return springs are the best.. the bright cad units for the lower spring. If all else is correct and not binding you should never need one of the helper return springs at the pedal. Find out what's binding, pull your wheels and replace the springs if need be. Yes, the rears will be a pain. I've done it multiple times with e brake carrier on but it's difficult. A modern spring removal twist tool removes them easy enough off the studs... it's getting them back on that is the pain.

Make sure there's no binding, put a little grease at the clevis pins as that helps keep them free as well. Sparingly.... but pushing a little grease and penetrant in can't hurt.

Also, the 31 wire type anti rattler rod springs work the best. Snyders has them as well.

Larry Shepard
 
Thanks for the pointers I will go thru everything, I do see my "rattlers" are not connected, cannot imagine they really would do that much to return the pedal.
 
vern hodgson said:
Thanks for the pointers I will go thru everything, I do see my "rattlers" are not connected, cannot imagine they really would do that much to return the pedal.
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they dont do a darn thing for returning the rods - thye just put about 2 fingers worth of pressure on the rods so they dont rattle around like crazy and wallow the ends/threads out even faster...

grease/oil/check every pivot point of the brake system. Might disconnect all 4 rods from the cross shaft and make sure the pedal bushing, cross shaft bushings, and both clevis pins move freely then you can pull each rod and see if you have one (or more likely) all 4 that are "gritty or hard to pull and not springy.

I went thru every bit on my AA (same as car just a bit beefier pads) and my brake pedal is very springy and takes some effort to push by hand it pushes back so hard - by foot its easy.
 
Have you tried disconnecting the clevis' to isolate the problem ? All the linkage should move freely.
The 31 type springs are supposed to be 'more better'. I've doubled up the flat springs to try and increase a bit of pressure.
I've installed the helper return spring that the vendors sell, but, it really shouldn't be needed.
 
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