Brake problems

[Daves55Sedan]

Passenger side front brake shoes started to drag. Thought maybe it was too much friction where the brake shoe metal base contacts with the backplate, so I cleaned up the backplate and applied a dab of lubriplate at the contact points. Removed guts of the wheel cylinder and intalled new rubber cups and springs after dunking them in DOT5 fluid. Also thought maybe brake retracting springs might be weak, so installed new springs.
Maybe there is pressure trapped in the crossover tubing, so I loosened the fitting at the front hose connection and twisted the steel tube in half.
With no fluid in the line and the bleeder screw open the shoes still drag even with the adjustment all the way down as low as it can go. It seems like the shoes are up against the top pin but it is hard to tell with that retainer behind the springs. you can't see it real good. I am thoroughly stumped as to why they drag even with no pressure in the line.
Does anybody sell that crossover tubing by itself, or do you need to buy the entire set of tubing for the whole car? It appears inline tube and Macs only sell the whole car kit.
I'd prefer not to have to make that out of junk from autozone. My tubing bender wont make bends that sharp.

 

[JeffB2]

Check your local yellow pages for hydraulic parts and repairs most of these shops can bend up anything you want and flare as needed if you bring the old line as a template.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

Dave use some Nickel Copper Alloy (NiCu?) brake line. Great stuff. It is easier to flare and bend and does not rust. SAE approved.

Also check your rubber hoses. When they get old the tend to come apart inside and act like a check valve, allowing fluid to flow in only one direction. Could be holding pressure on that side.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

Dave, here's an example of the tubing I was referring to. http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performa...pp-Nickel-Copper-Brake-Lines/2111534/10002/-1.

 

[frank long island]

I have used the rolls of that product to re do my sons 94 crown vic police interceptor it was a wardens car from Maryland best 250.00 I ever spent car runs great with 154,000 just breaking in

 

[Ole Don]

This is the type of tubing bender that makes the small radius bend near the end of the tube.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ap?ck=Search_N0721_-1_1222&pt=N0721&ppt=C0374
Not that expensive, and it works.

 

[y'sguy]

That NiCu stuff can be (carefully) bent by hand on wide stuff. then use the bender on the close stuff.
As an amateur, I find that I need to do lots of trial an error on tubing bending. It's a challenge for me for sure. So, I always buy more tubing than I need and be ready to waste some. Haha! That's an understatement.

I agree on the flex line too, I would replace the flex line I bet it has collapsed from the inside over time. On brakes I usually would rather have that line made at my local shop AND I have made it a practice of replacing it with what I consider to be a higher, safer grade of braided stainless flex tubing. It has a different interior jacket or something? that I like better. Doesn't look stock if that concerns you. usually cost more too. But hey, stopping the car-it's pretty important!