Brake pedal return

bunnyc

bunnyc

Senior Member
Both of my rear service brake rods were bent so I decided to replace them. Nice, pretty, straight rods.
Now my brake pedal doesn't return all the way on it's own, I can pull it back. And, my brake light stays on, until I pull it back.
No doubt it has to do with adjusting the new brake rods, since everything was fine prior to this.
I'll continue adjusting, just venting on here and to my ever patient husband.
Thanks for listening.
 
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Get your rods adjusted properly and see what happens . IMO the anti rattlers are just that and not so much as a return spring. It does give you a little bit but have seen many cars without anti rattlers and the rods returned fine....
there are many other things that can cause tightness and the brakes to not return.
 
The brake rod anti-rattlers usually need to be bent to give enough tension to keep the rod upsets in the pockets. I often also see the mounting bracket for them bent. The fronts mount to the front side of the brackets, and the rears mount to the rear side of the brackets. Again, there is a little movement in the pockets, so I give them a dab of grease, as well as all the brake pins. Someone will say that grease attracts dirt and makes the parts wear out, but rust makes them wear out quicker, and then they also squeak as they wear.
 
The vendors sell a helper spring that hooks on the brake pedal and the rear motor mount that helps with that last 1/2 inch or so, usually due to some slop somewhere. Its kind of a crutch, but its a nice one. Good Luck:)
 
have you guys felt that the later spring-type of "anti-rattler" gives more brake rod return than the flat type? I know that for a long time the repros of the flat type were poorly made and not very functional.
 
I put the later coil spring style return springs on my '28 roadster pickup.
They seem to be working well. I didn't have any return springs before as the previous owner removed them 40+ years ago.
 
I had the same problem on mine, and was able to fix it by loosening the cross shaft mounting brackets that attached to the frame about 1/2 a turn, and spraying a little light oil in the cross shaft bearings. It returns with no problems now, and most importantly, the brake lights go off!
 
I fixed a car where the brake switch plunger was rubbing on the side of the hole in the crossmember. Just loosening the mounting bolts and shifting the switch was enough to fix it.
 
I have this problem and I am about to replace my cross shaft with a rebuilt one. I hope this fixes my return problem so that I can remove the extra pedal return spring that I added several years ago.
 
Mitch//pa said:
Get your rods adjusted properly and see what happens . IMO the anti rattlers are just that and not so much as a return spring. It does give you a little bit but have seen many cars without anti rattlers and the rods returned fine....
there are many other things that can cause tightness and the brakes to not return.
Click to expand...


I would need to look at the print but I am thinking I recall seeing they were originally manufactured from spring steel. Even Ford engineers called those A-2503 "anti-rattlers" a Brake Rod Spring, --which tells me they were designed to be a spring. I tend to believe that most restorers are used to the reproduction units that are manufactured from mild steel instead of spring steel.
 
I found that the battery was not installed with the corner clamps and had vibrated over to interfere with lever arm. The end of the arm was actually digging into the side of the battery. A small inheritance from the PO.
 
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