Brake Pedal Return Issue

BadgerA

BadgerA

Senior Member
Just completed a restoration and have an issue where the brake pedal does not fully return to the "off", or upright position,, which in turn leaves the brake light on unless I "pull the petal" back into the position with my foot. I have checked all the obvious including, obstructions, brake rod lengths, etc. to no avail. I do have a Ted's floater kit" installed which removes the top springs in the front brakes,,, but I have never heard of this being an issue in the past. Anyone care to suggest some possible causes? Thanks in advance.
 
I think suppliers have a pedal return spring setup. Too tired to look it up. (Yawn!) The Rat Terrier's beggin' me to go to bed! Bill W.
 
Thanks, I did check the anti rattlers,, and the "balls" are properly seated and offer what seems to be the proper resistance.
 
As Preacher said, be sure the brake rod return springs are pushing the rods back to their normal off position; this is the purpose of the upset on the brake rods, and also on the emergency brake rods.

Ron
 
During the brake assembly hopefully you did install new brake springs on the shoes. However, there are some poor quality springs on the market. Check that the hooks on the end of the springs are opposite each other. The poor quality ones have the hooks facing the same direction, They are a weaker spring and tend to pull the shoe to the side. Bratton's has the good quality correct springs.

When you set the brake rods up initially you should position the service brake cross shaft so that the levers are at a 12 and 6 oclock position before you adjust the rods.

Check that you have the rear backing plates on the correct sides. The backing plates themselves are the same, but once the brake levers are attached they become a left and a right. The area of the lever where the clevis pin inserts is slightly canted. When installed correctly both sides should have the angle canted toward the center of the car. If you have them reversed it can bind the rods.

When you install Flathead Ted's floater system the 8 brake adjusting shafts (Bratton part number 2810) are called upon to move back and forth as the shoes float. In the original design they did not move once an adjustment is made. These shafts are not machined and many are not smooth and some even have a seam down the length. It is important that none are bent. They all should be the same exact length. You should make a simple jig to check them and alter if necessary. Take a file or emery paper and smooth the length so they slide in the tunnels smoothly. Be sure to lubricate them. Check that there are no gouges inside each of the tunnels. If any are binding the shoes will not float properly and could bind the shoe so that it does not return properly.

If you installed Ted's "Pins" on the rear tracks it is important that you centered them. Bratton's has a good centering tool.

I would discourage the use of the extra helper sping suppliers carry. It is just a band aid covering up something that is not correct.

Tom Endy
 
Are ALL the moving parts oiled or greased? Are the pedal bushings in good shape and lubed?

BTW, I like your flat fendered JEEP.
 
Tom Endy said:
When you set the brake rods up initially you should position the service brake cross shaft so that the levers are at a 12 and 6 oclock position before you adjust the rods.
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The cross shaft levers are not the best point of reference for adjusting the brake pedal to cross shaft rod. Ford's point of reference is the extension at the rear or that rod which includes a "button" upset on the end beginning late 1929. The rod is to be adjusted so with the brake pedal all the way up, the rear extension clears the inside rear of the center cross member by 1/16". This method eliminates potential problems that can arise when relying on a visual perspective.

I would have bet on the brake rod return springs but the description sounds proper.
 
I had this problem way back on the 31 Tudor.. Greased everything and noticed that the stop light switch which is bolted to the cross member was not working properly and it was fairly new. Replaced it and everything worked fine. Get someone to use the brakes while you are underneath in good view of the switch and see if it's going in and out and not getting held up inside.
 
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Since you have removed some of the brake shoe springs you will need good brake rod springs.........something better than what my car has. I haven't changed them yet because my 28 brake pedal returns fine, even with them. What year are you having trouble with? I have seen the frame mounted brake switch not go to the OFF position because the switch rod was rubbing on the side of the hole it fits through.

It sounds like you have good brake rod springs since you said they hold well in the pockets. The front brake rod return springs bolt to the front of the mounting bracket, and the rears go on the rear side of the bracket.
 
I find that the repro brake rod return springs need to be bent a bit more to push the rods back properly I put a bit of grease in the pockets as well.Proper adjustment of pedal to cross shaft rod is important as well.
 
I had the same problem on my 31 sw . It was the brake light switch I had bought for $6.95 not US made . I put a 28 switch on that bolts to the top of the transmission and works by a rod that pulls the switch . I tried all the above including buying a spring return device before I got under the car and had my wife push on the brake .Once I did this I could see that the switch was sticking . The 28 is a much better design .
 
I'm also having issues with the pedal not returning and the switch sticking on my Dad's Coupe. The switch is a brand new reproduction unit from Sacramento Vintage Ford. Is the rod that passes through the switch adjustable? I turned it a couple of times and it started working (might have been just a coincidence) but now its sticking again and the brake light wont come on. Before I unbolt it and smash it into ten thousand little pieces is there a simple fix or adjustmanet I can make?
 
Muttley said:
I'm also having issues with the pedal not returning and the switch sticking on my Dad's Coupe. The switch is a brand new reproduction unit from Sacramento Vintage Ford. Is the rod that passes through the switch adjustable? I turned it a couple of times and it started working (might have been just a coincidence) but now its sticking again and the brake light wont come on. Before I unbolt it and smash it into ten thousand little pieces is there a simple fix or adjustmanet I can make?
Click to expand...

I bought a reproduction 29 style and had to open it up and adjust it, they really are not very good. I thought there was a thread showing how to do it but I can't find it.
 
A trick I've learned from some original model a mechanics is to add a lower shoe spring around the rear yoke of the brake pedal pull rod to the crossmember. It works surprisingly well.
 
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BrakeSw-1.jpg


BrakeSw.jpg


I don't know the year of your car, or the type of brake switch, but here is the 1928-29 style. Mine had a broken spring, so I used one from another parts switch. I like to use Mystik JT-6 High Temp red grease on all the moving parts. The grease pictured was used on the contacts.

The 28-9 switch is spring loaded to turn off, and the 30-1 style is spring loaded to turn on. So the 1930-31 switch has spring pressure to overcome when the brake pedal is released. It's important to make sure the switch rod doesn't rub on the side of the hole in the crossmember. Also lube the rod to case area. A&L makes the best quality repro switch with bushings like the original.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I don't know the year of your car, or the type of brake switch, but here is the 1928-29 style.
Click to expand...

My Dad's is a '31, I'm guessing that inside the housing the switch is basically like the one you have pictured in your post. I'll crawl under it and see if it can be taken apart and any burrs removed from the holes that the rod passes through. Maybe I can enlarge them a bit so the rod doesnt hang up on anything? I may also try a little grease if I'm sure it wont interfere with the electrical contacts. I'll keep you guys posted.
 
If you enlarge any holes, make it the mounting holes ON THE SWITCH. You know the frame has the correct holes, so you don't want to mess up a good original part to make a poor repro part fit.
 
I recommend you try using the brake pedal return spring from Snyders, part# A-2455-ACC, telephone 888-262-5172. I also had problems with the poorly made repro brake switches. After replacing it for the third time I purchased one made by A&L Parts Specialties, telephone 860-693-0112. They maunfacture their own brake light switch which has brass bushings and it is bullet proof. Make sure you ask for the good one (around $40) as they also sell the cheap repro switch.
 
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